Next Wednesday Cocktail Adventure

15 July 2009 Hotel Rapheal

Find my google map of all the bars on 52martinis here.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Wednesday Night Cocktail Adventure: Oxyd

Oxyd Bar
26 Avenue Jean-Aicard
75011 Paris
Tel: 01 48 06 20 81

Sure first impressions are important. But, they’re not enough to hold your interest if you find yourself disappointed with what’s behind that flirty glance. And, let’s face it: we’re looking for serious relationships here at 52martinis, not just passing fancies!

When I first arrived at Oxyd, a bit earlier than the rest of the crowd, I was pleasantly surprised to find this offbeat little oasis in an area with no shortage of run of the mill bars. The nice weather guaranteed a happy crowd on the good sized sidewalk terrace and inside the ambience was ratty-tatty hip flea market with cushy large sofas and arms chairs stuffed into corners making snug little spaces for friendly groups. The many tables in the center up the odds of finding at least a seat if the cozy corners are full. A well worn antique piano gives it a mustily agreeable “I’ve just stumbled into my grandma’s attic” touch. I was told they have fun music in the evenings and project films on a screen on one wall. Tajines are served in the bar and the adjoining restaurant. So far, this place seemed possibly big, interesting and varied enough to provide a promising night spot for large crews looking for a good time in a lively environment.

The drinks menu features the standard beers, wines and softs and offers a few pages of cocktails arranged by spirit running between 7 to 9 Euros. The small scruffy bar was lined with several house made rhums arrangés (infused rums originally created in places like Madagascar and Reunion Island) and the menu featured several rum-based drinks. But the sparse, dusty bottles of low grade spirits behind the bar hoarsely croak: “this is not a cocktail destination.”

Perhaps seeing me eye the selection, the “barman” announced “I’m not the barman. I can only do beer and wine.” No problem, I told him. I was in no rush so I said I’d wait for the barman’s arrival. Did he have an idea of when he was coming? No. Obviously, from a cocktail standpoint, this didn’t impress. But, I did feel a bit sorry for the guy back there who had no idea what he was doing and minutes later announced to the next customer that not only were cocktails out of the question, but he couldn’t do beer either. Tea or coffee were the choices since he couldn’t manage to pour a draft beer without a flurry of foam. This was clearly not his job. The barman eventually arrived, but in this place void of vermouth, I was out of luck for a martini. I asked him what he recommended in the way of rum drinks. I got an okay mojito and followed up with a very poor planteurs.

I thought, perhaps, their rhum arrangé might be interesting. Maybe those laboratorical looking glass jars with their handwritten labels contained some enlightening elixir. Maybe someone here was a well practiced master when it came to infusing rhum with tasty complimentary flavors. Sure, maybe. I still wasn’t willing to risk it. Instead I talked Matt into taking one for his cocktail. Good call. He got a tiny glass tea cup of what tasted like iced Theraflu. Theraflu is good for colds, not cocktails.

One might think I would have left. But, last week’s cocktail adventure was a bit unusual because it dovetailed into a big group outing for some friends who were in town and plenty of folks who wanted to see them. So after an hour or two of tasting and testing, suddenly our group grew beyond Wednesday night cocktail adventure proportions to 25 or so party people looking to get out, catch up, eat and drink. We had reserved the small alcove, but our group spilled out around the bar, onto the tables and into the street.

And, this is where this bar worked well. For a large group of people, there was plenty of space to mingle, relax in a comfy corner, order something off the food menu or head outside for a bit of air. When the owner arrived later in the evening, the feeling in the bar lifted for the better and he immediately set about visiting tables, checking on customers, lighting candles and placing out little dishes of peanuts.

While I can quite confidently say that their cocktails are crap, fortunately our lot had enough high spirits of our own to turn a sour cocktail adventure into a frolicking good night anyway.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Wednesday Cocktail Adventure: Prune de Nuit

Prune de Nuit
12 rue Marie et Louise
75010 Paris
Tel : 01 40 03 63 27


Although curious by nature, I have no desire to know what people are saying behind my back. If it's something bad, I don't want to know. If it's something good, then I'll just feel an irrational responsibility to live up to someone else's expectations. Similarly, I get a little nervous sometimes when I'm blogging on a bar recommended by someone I know. I really want my post to live up to their expectations of the bar. But, what if it sucks, and I blog that and the person takes it as a personal affront and never speaks to me again? And what, then, if I need a blood transfusion and it turns out I've got a rare blood type and this person has the SAME blood type? However, we're no longer speaking because of my nefarious post, so they don't give me the transfusion? Well, fret not, gentle readers. I have not yet lost a potential blood donor!

This week I stopped by the Prune de Nuit, which was recommended by Sasha over at ParisIncognito. She thought it would be up my alley. When I arrived, I immediately saw why she might think so. The arrangements of tiny twinkling lights, the hot pink wall behind the bar and the glowing tables provide a unpretentiously fun ambiance. The banquettes and bar stools are hip and comfy. The purple glowing bar doesn't scream "we're going to charge you through the nose" (like the one at Pershing Hall) but rather it says, "We're fun and a bit funky, but down to earth." So far, so good.

The cocktail menu, however, did concern me a bit. It wasn't the 15 choices, which is a decent enough number for a bar that doesn't tout itself as a cocktail destination, but rather the abundance of cosmo variations and vodka based drinks. For many serious cocktail enthusiasts, there are great cocktails and there are vodka cocktails but never the twain shall meet. In fact, there are many who take this as a measurement of how serious you really are about cocktails. I'm of two minds about this. As my drinking tastes mature, I appreciate that there are many more interesting spirits to put into your drinks and would opt for pretty much anything over vodka. On the other hand, it's only cocktails, folks, not world peace, so I've been known to try and enjoy some vodka drinks myself. So...the vodka heavy menu did not doom it, just encouraged me to watch the barman a bit closer to see what he could do.

And, his martini making did not disappoint. I expected him to reach for Gordon's, but - surprise - there was none behind this bar. He pulled down the Tanqueray and Noilly Pratt for my martini which was stirred and poured into into a nicely chilled glass. He topped it off with an olive and served it up with some killer bar snacks of chips and guacamole, tiny chicken wings, and olives. He followed up to see if the drink was okay, which is always appreciated. And, I proclaimed it 'super'.

I followed my martini with le chic (raspberry juice, fig liqueur & champagne), which pleased me when I realized it wasn't - as I feared it might be - overtly sweet. I proclaimed it interestingly tasty and yummy. By now I know the bartender/owner is named Bruno, so I ask my new friend, Bruno, about the "cocktail du jour." He tells me he is in the process of creating it and offers me the drink he is currently making on the house. It was a very simple combination of fresh melon juice and vodka. While I would normally enjoy a drink with more complexity, I proclaimed this one (apparently I'm very into proclaiming today) 'nice, refreshing and very sell-able" And, I meant it. It's incredibly hot in Paris right now, that cooling little concoction was the best drink I had all night.

While Prune de Nuit is not a craft cocktail destination, I think Bruno is successfully working his cocktail skills behind the bar. And, here was the cincher for us: he's just really nice. Mylene and Ritu, who both opted for the Chilean wine at 6 Euros/glass, enthused about the place. The prices were reasonable at 10 Euros a drink, but the addition of the many little munchies make this a very pleasing deal. While cocktail elitists may shy away from the many vodka based drinks on the menu, I think even they would find that this little unassuming place has just enough of the good stuff behind the bar to get a well made and enjoyable drink. Well played, Sasha - we can still exchange blood!

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Wednesday Night Cocktail Adventure: Clin d'Oeil

Clin d'Oeil
15, rue Copreaux
Paris 75015
Téléphone: 01 43 06 83 35

You know what it means when you ask your girlfriend if the guy she's trying to set you up with is cute and she answers: "He's really nice and he's got a great sense of humor." Well, if you ask me if the Clin d'Oeil makes up top notch cocktails, I'll tell you: "The bartender's really charming and the seats are comfy!"

Set off on a quiet street and open only six months or so, the Clin d'Oeil is probably not yet a destination restaurant and pulls in mainly a very local crowd. With a nod (or a "clin d'oeil") to old Hollywood glamour, the owner has tried to create a classical American bar feel with dark wood, tastefully modern red vinyl chairs and head-shots of silver screen stars like Jean Harlow and Humphrey Bogart decorating the walls of this petite but inviting space. When we arrived around 9, the place was calm with just a couple of tables of diners. With his distinguished grey hair and crisp black suit, Tony (owner/barman/server) cuts a dashing figure as he zips around making drinks, serving food and chatting with patrons. Having previously worked at the crowded Les Editeurs as well as many other restaurants and cafes, I imagine he's used to handling multiple tasks and people simultaneously.

The lack of usuals, Matt and Violaine, was made up for by the addition of Melanie and Tara, so we settled in for some light girly chat over a few drinks. The cocktail menu is rather a small and basic selection (Americano, gin fizz, pina colada, etc.) at about 7 - 9 Euros each. I started with the usual martini, which was not listed on the menu, average and served in a champagne flute. Melanie ordered the potentially interesting Scorpion (rum, apricot liquor, pineapple juice, lemon juice, grenadine & cayenne pepper). There have been countless variations on the original Trader Vic's Scorpion recipe, but the only thing this one had in common was the rum. Tony told us that he was taught this recipe by the iconic French singer Serge Gainsbourg, which I think makes for a fun tidbit to drop when it's ordered. We liked the Scorpion, but I think a bit more cayenne would have taken it up a notch. Tara enjoyed her mojito. Salty olives and peanuts came with the drinks. For another round, Tony recommended margaritas, which left me non-plussed. There was either little or no cointreau or it may have been bottled lime juice, which I think tastes much tarter than fresh.

We chatted off an on with Tony throughout the night and he is genuinely enthusiastic about running a cocktail bar. He promised that later visits would yield more choice behind the bar, including fresh citrus, and explained that he wants a "young cocktail" crowd. Unfortunately, for the moment, the prices aren't cheap enough to pull in a young crowd and the drinks not interesting enough to pull in a serious cocktail crowd. I noticed that 33cl beers (just around a half pint) run between 5 to 6.50 Euros, which is on the high side if you're looking for a young crowd.

But, I do believe he merits a respectable crowd - I'm just not sure what for yet. Once he figures out his angle and works it, he'll successfully pull in plenty of drinkers and diners. For the few very enjoyable hours we stayed there, the only other customers remained the two to three tables of diners. The menu looked interesting, including a well-priced 20 Euros 3 course lunch menu and what we saw arriving at the tables looked good.

At the end of the evening, as he was clearing off the last emptied tables, Tony came out with a bottle of tequila and Schweppes and ceremoniously prepared us a round of tequila poppers. My favorite libation? Nope. But, come on....who hasn't knocked back of a few of those on a cinco de mayo down at Telaque Paque!? And, I do appreciate that he was doing something that seemed fun and different for us once he realized we were curious and inquisitive about his drinks and drink making skills.

While the cocktail menu lacks oompf, I'm having a hard time criticizing Clin d'Oeil. Overall, not a bad place to stop by for a drink of something standard or possibly try the lunch menu if you're in the area. While not a cocktail destination for me, I'm seriously rooting for Tony...I hope he figures out what works best for him and packs his place out. He's got a lot going for him, it's just not what I'm necessarily looking for on a Wednesday.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Wedensday Night Cocktail Adventures: Why Paris

Why Paris
60, Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau
75001 Paris
Tel : 01 40 26 47 63

I'm going to try and not let this post morph into a modern day Abbot and Costello sketch - but with a name like "Why" you see how I might go there.

My first impression of this smallish spot is that the dark walls contrast with the stark white tables and chairs to give it a warm but modern ambiance. The background music, while not overwhelmingly loud, was fun and funky - with Boogieman and the nearly forgotten 80's single Din Da Da making me dance around in my chair just a little bit as I perused the list of cocktails on offer.

I was immediately impressed by the menu which featured a good number of standards such as Manhattans, ti punch and bourbon sours, some new and interesting creations such as the bubble gum, bee sting and Why Paris Chocolate (all of which were a hit with those who favored sweeter drinks) and the unusual: "cocktail destructurés". Owner and bartender, Christophe, previously worked at le Forum, so he already had a pretty good arsenal of cocktail making skills before branching out on his own. My Bombay martini was stirred, served up in a chilled glass with a twist and tasted like it was made with love and care (I was given a choice of gins when I ordered, but took the house). With six of us packed around a couple of four tops, we had the opportunity to sample several drinks. Everyone was generally happy with their choices and for the second round I moved onto the deconstructed cocktails.

The Somerset was a measure of tequila with a bit of lime served up on the rocks in a martini glass accompanied by a puree of tomato and avocado. To consume this uniquely presented little concoction, you take a spoon full of the puree and follow it with a sip of the tequila. While I wouldn't order one after another of these, I did get a kick out of the presentation and enjoyed the one I had. While I was disappointed with the 'gimmicky' drinks i had at the Plaza Athenee some time ago, I felt none of that here. With these drinks - though in a similar vein - i felt like Christophe has much more of a genuine interest in creating and sharing something special with his clients and at a much more reasonable price of around 12 Euros. Violaine followed up with the deconstructed Planteur consisting of pineapple slices, jellied angostura orange and rum and a mini planteurs.

A few of us girls ended up lingering longer than usual, and after awhile Christophe brought over a small minty drink. While I never think a barman 'owes' customers a drink, i think it's a nice touch when they bring something around on the house after a few rounds. One of the reasons we may have stayed longer than usual were the tasty bar snacks. No mere olives or pretzels, the Why brings out a nice tray of bread, salsa and rillette de veau. While the salsa was so so (I'm pretty picky about my salsa and could tell this came from a jar) the rillette was the star. Tasty and substantial, it allowed the group to while away a bit more time without having to rush off to get something in our tummies.

Why prices are completely reasonable for the quality at 10 to 12 Euros. However, what I noticed particularly catching patrons and passerby's eye were the mojitos and caipirihnias at 6 Euros on offer at the moment. And, the few outside tables seem a good place to sample one of these during the summer months while people watching.

So, overall, for the Why bar, I give a very enthusiastic "Why not!?"

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Wednesday Night Cocktail Adventure: le China

Le China
50 Rue de Charenton
75012 Paris
Tel : 01 43 46 08 09

I'm back .... and, so is the China Club! But, you'd be forgiven for thinking they were still closed since the old website saying so remains online. They do have a new site, but the first thing you'll come across on most google searches is the original. Yeah, we know: sometimes the Internet lies.

I always enjoyed the China Club back in the day. I'm not sure why they closed, but the space, under new ownership and no longer called the "China Club" but "Le China" retains all of the original decor and charm of the original. They've still got a hiply classical feel with heavy red velvet drapes, warm leather sofas and the crisp black and white tiled floor. Warm wood furniture adds to the comfortable elegance of this locale and the lighting is dim enough to avoid the interrogation room feeling of many French establishments. The ambiance is accessible chic: it feels a little special without being intimidating. The ground level is spacious, calm and on my visits - which generally take place in early evening - rather empty. The lower level offers up the same cool deco and probably pulls in a sizable young and pretty crowd with their free nightly concerts. I think this spot could work for an quiet tête à tête or a bigger, lively group depending on when and where you deposit yourself here.

Le China does a decent happy hour price-wise, assuming you want to order two of the same thing. From 6 to 8pm you can have your second cocktail free: not the second drink of your choice, but the same as your first order. So, if you're going for the classic dry martini off their menu at 10 Euros, you can end up with effectively two at 5 Euros each. Not a bad price, but less of a steal if you're not in the mood for back to back martinis. But, I was pleased with my Tanqueray martini with a twist so i did have a second. I'd say this is the best 5 Euros martini I'll ever get in Paris. And while you're sipping, beautiful waitstaff bring tasty olives that we think were marinated in sesame oil & chili sauce.

The non-happy hour prices range from 10 - 12 Euros with a few interesting sections including "New York prohibition cocktails", "classics" and house creations. I don't fully understand the the "Prohibition cocktails" category since it includes drinks created as recently as last year. (perhaps they mean prohibition-inspired?)* The classics include some solid basics like martini, martinez & old fashioned. Violaine tried the raspberry daiquiri off the "classics", which was made with fresh raspberries and was simple and refreshing. The food menu appears reasonable and features a range of dim sum, noodles, buns, etc.

Overall, if you're looking for a chilled out hideaway from the typical Paris drinking spots, this somewhat forgotten old standby deserves a revisit.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: le Tarmac

Le Tarmac
33 rue de Lyon
Paris 12ème
Tél : 01 43 41 97 70

Is Big Brother watching us? Even while we're drinking cocktails?

When I arrived at le Tarmac and found Ritu already there, she showed me her receipt for her monthly metro pass. She pointed out that the receipt shows the activity for this month and last month and felt it is a bit "big brother" to have all of her movements recorded. I agreed, but we both conceded that there is probably much more information about our private lives "out there" and accessible to others. But, onto more important matters at hand, I asked the barman if he could make a "dry martini." He said of course and moments later came back with a long glass, filled with plenty of ice, a lemon chunk and liquid that had a slight yellow tinge. He left. I suspiciously sipped. Ritu could tell from my facial expression alone after that first sip that I was not loving my 'martini' and I told her it was nothing but a glass full of dry vermouth. A few minutes later the barman returned to our table and asked me if there was something wrong with my martini. Now the bartender was nowhere nearby when I tasted, my back was him so he couldn't see my expression, we weren't speaking loudly and there were plenty of other people thronged around the bar to prevent the drifting of my conversation to his ears. Were the tables bugged? Was big brother really watching?

Fear not, 52 martinis readers! As far as I know Parisian bars are not wired. A waitress had seen my expression when I took the first drink and went to the tell the barman that it didn't look like I had gotten what I expected. I explained to the very nice and accommodating gentleman that I had wanted dry vermouth and gin mixed together. This is the point where he tells me that they do not have dry vermouth. (now, remember, I am drinking a glass of nothing but dry vermouth.) I explain to him that the stuff in that bottled labeled Martini is in fact vermouth. I find this funny, because this is the 3rd bar in Paris where I've had this exact same conversation with the bartender.

Matt and Violaine arrived and ordered off the menu, which offers a dozen or so cocktails such as margaritas, bloody marys and americanos at 6 - 9 Euros. Matt had a daiquiri, Violaine a mojito and I had a margarita for my 2nd round. While none of these very average drinks dazzled, we were impressed by the friendly and helpful service. And, fortunately, it was happy hour, so the drinks turned out to be only 3 - 4 Euros each. The bar munchies are little plates of snacky crackers and dried fruit. They also do tapas plates at 2 - 3 Euros, so we ordered a few of these, which ranged from fine to good.

The atmosphere at le Tarmac is brightly lit and clean. Matt commented that the decor felt a bit cheap and I have to agree. In a nod to the name, pictures of airplanes adorned the walls. However, I'm not sure what the pictures of the double decker bus or the bunch of bananas are a nod to. I do like a bar with a terrace, so they have that going for them. Overall, this place should be a hit with a younger crowd who are swayed more by happy hour prices than high end cocktails. But, just so Big Brother knows, I probably won't be going back there anytime soon.

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures Part II: 4 Elements

4 Elements
149, Rue Amelot
75011 Paris
Tel : 01 47 00 34 11

In search of something positive from last Wednesday's Cocktail Adventures, I'm posting on our follow up bar to Hotel du Nord. After our hasty and coerced departure, we followed Jodie to a place recently opened by friends of hers.

Not surprisingly, considering one of our group knows the owners, the atmosphere at 4 Elements was more welcoming and the bar staff friendlier. Even better - they seemed to be upbeat and friendly with all of the clientele, friends or not. The deco at 4 Elements is affordable-modern stippled with brightly colored illuminated plastic bits and pieces & video screens. I had a potently drinkable ti punch. While not the best of the cocktails I've sampled in Paris, their drinks are acceptable and affordable at 8 - 9 Euros/drink. In addition to the drinks, 4 Elements has a few offerings which might be of interest to Parisian barflys.

The concept here is - not surprisingly - the four elements. We were given a tour of the place and shown each section corresponding with an element. "Fire" is represented by the main part of the bar, where DJ's play different types of music each night, hot dogs are occasionally served (but not this night), and a small bar is lined with what appeared to be friendly regulars. Presumably things get hot here. Beyond the bar, you enter a calm, cool and quiet room with comfy chairs with a spot to rest your drink. This is the "Earth" space and serves as their "chill out" room. If this bar got a bit too hectic, I'd happily kick back in this space and enjoy the zen atmosphere. Water was represented by the restrooms, but the only really outstanding part about this "element" was the communal wash basin. And, finally, which may be of some interest to a few, we checked out "Air." Since the smoking ban, 4 Elements is one of the few bars in Paris which has an actual authorized indoor smoking area. This small space is decorated in light blues and invokes a bit of a fairy tale feeling. For a smoking space, it wasn't overwhelmingly smokey, however with only a handful of people in there, it was hard to know what it's like when it gets busier.

Overall, the drinks were average at around 8 - 9 Euros a piece. However, the chill out space & the smoking area do give 4 Elements a bit of a something extra over the average Paris bar. If you're thinking about stopping by, you might want to check out what music night it is beforehand. I probably wouldn't make a trip back here for just the drinks, but I think this nice bunch deserves a shout out for their interesting concept and friendly vibe.