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Friday, December 2, 2011

Old Fav Cocktail Adventures: Prescription Cocktail Club


Prescription Cocktail Club

23 rue Mazarine

75006 Paris

Tel: 01 46 34 67 73


One of the reasons I write about nearly every place I visit - whether good or bad - is that I don’t want readers to assume that if a bar is not on the blog it's bad by default. But there's been an omission on my blog for much too long, which I must rectify because 52 martinis is not complete without it: Prescription Cocktail Club.


I visited Paris’ third ECC bar shortly after it opened and was pleased to see they maintained the same level of quality and service as their first two ventures (Experimental Cocktail Club and Curio Parlor.) I sidled up to the bar often and chatted with charming and capable bar staff - frequently staying much later than I had initially planned. So how could it be that after so many visits I hadn't garnered material for a post? The fact is I kept it as a go-to spot where I could kick back with a cocktail and leave the notes and picture taking behind.


And that's what makes Prescription so enjoyable. The trio behind this bar has long-established their cocktail cred so there's no need to constantly survey the service - all you need to do is sit back and trust that your drink will be well-executed whether a classic vieux carré made with Rittenhouse or a new creation. The menu also gives a nod to well-established cocktail notables with drinks like the Gin Gin Mule à la Audrey Saunders as well as offering up a selection of finger foods.


In fact, the group behind this bar has so successfully established their cocktail credibility that they've branched out into other highly competitive drinking markets with a cocktail bar in London, another in New York and, recently, a fourth Paris venue exclusively for wine.


Prescription oozes the same lounge lover style as their other spots. While the downstairs bar is the perfect place to pull up a stool and watch the bartenders work, the upstairs holds a second bar hidden behind a bookshelf to cater to the bigger crowds on busier nights (and things do get much busier late night and weekends.) Dim lighting and cool decor transport patrons to a clandestine hideaway where it's easy to forget the outside world and responsibilities - even enjoyable ones like writing about said cocktail bar.


So, although there are plenty of pretty fresh faces turning heads on the Paris cocktail scene at the moment, that doesn't mean that a faithful old companion doesn't deserve some attention.

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Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Vintage Cocktail Adventures: l'Entree des Artistes


l'Entree des Artistes
8 rue de Crussol
75011 Paris

The Paris cocktail scene has
done a lot of growing up over the past 4 years. We've gone from a handful of successful forerunners to a nicely growing network of drinking options. Paris bar talent is expanding internationally with the ECC setting up shop in both the UK and the US. And we're seeing international cocktail trends showing up in bars here locally - the latest of which is aged cocktails. The first mixology maostro to experiment with bottling a premixed cocktail and leaving it to age was Tony Conigliaro at 69 Colebrook Rowe in London. Jeffrey Morgenthaler followed up with more barrel aged cocktail trials in Portland, Oregon. And now, Paris l
ocals can weigh in on whether or not a few weeks of storage can improve the taste of their tipples at the newly opened l'Entree des Artistes.

The team behind this laid-back locale, hit the ground running with pre-opening anticipation on the part of Paris cocktillians. Fabien, having honed his skills at Prescription Cocktail Club, teams his bar skills with Edouard, who handles the wine side. The result: a relaxed, low key, pint-sized cocktail bar with a significant food and wine list as well.

I stopped in last week with a few friends to form my own opinions on the 'vintage' drinks. My friends were surprized when i led them to the place telling me it used to be a 'divey' bar where'd they'd hang out for cheep beers. It's been renovated, but not so much that it's lost the laid-back local frenchie feel. The casual space is enhanced with well chosen touches like the antique cash register and swank bar accoutrements. Also, on my visit, I ran into Thierry Daniel of Liquid Liquid/Cocktail Spirits doing his own sampling, which is a good sign that the drinks are worth trying.

I tried a negroni and a vieux carre, both of which had been aged in barrels for 6 weeks.
The aging brings a mellow and interesting melange of flavors that i think make them worth the 14 - 15 Euros price tag. However, patrons looking for something a little less invasive on the pocketbook, can play with their impressive menu of cocktails at 10 - 11 Euros each. And the standard cocktail menu offerings are no less interesting with options like the Mon Vieux Tabac (Peychaud's bitters, Bob's Bitters licorice, tabacco liqueur, Carpano Anica Formula, Cognan Grosperrin and Rittenhouse Rye 100). Clearly this is no mojito mecca. Given the care that's going into these drinks, l'Entree des Artistes currently rates as one of Paris' best values for money in cocktail options.


I see a bright future for these boys amongst the serious cocktail crowd as well as residents looking for a refreshing change of pace from the so many just so-so bars in the Oberkampf area. And, while I like to see local bars bringing in already established cocktail practices, I'm also looking forward to spending more time there to explore what they can bring to the cocktail trends themselves.

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Thursday, September 8, 2011

Club Sandwich Cocktail Adventures: The Club


24 rue Sourcouff
75007 Paris

One of the fun aspects of writing a cocktail blog is getting invites for launch parties and the like. Last night, I made a stop into an event organized for press and interested parties by newly opened The Club. Antoni Pascual and Stephane Bilard have paired cocktails with club sandwiches in this 'chaotic chic' two floor space designed by master milliner turned shoe maker, Philippe Model.

Two specific cocktails were planned for the event, so I forwent my usual martini order and let Stephane (who previously has worked such big names as Pershing Hall, le Meurice and Plaza Athenee) mix me up The Club (42 Below vodka, lime, Fever Tree ginger beer and Angostura bitters) With its vodka base, this wouldn't be a typical order for me, but it does highlight something they're doing right: fresh and well chosen, good quality ingredients. [I'm a fan of Fever Tree] Downstairs, Stephane Verga of la Maison du Whisky was mixing up a St Germain cocktail (St Germain, Bottle Green cordial & champagne) which is an interesting choice considering St Germain is not in any of their cocktails listed on the menu. But, I'm a St Germain fan as well, so I shan't complain.

Reasonably priced at 10 Euros a drink, their regular cocktail menu features 14 choices based on a range of spirits, only three of which are vodka based, which is a good sign that they are avoiding the lazy route of a mainly vodka menu. I predict that their more easily accessible options like the Red Mojito or the Berrie Breeze will be their biggest sellers - which is a shame because they've got some respectably better options on offer like manhattans, old fashioneds or a white lady with egg white.

As for the stock, they're working with la Maison du Whisky, and take pride in the fact that it's a small but well thought out selection. Hendrick's and Tanqueray are the listed gins and seem to be good choices if you're going with just two. And, although not listed on the menu, I also saw a bottle of Bombay Sapphire on the shelves.

While cocktails were being shaken and stirred, plates of grilled cheese and club sandwiches were circulating. Their 9 clubs on offer (15 to 18 Euros and served with veggies or potatoes) range from the classic to the luxe (roast beef, foie gras maison, roquette and piment d'Espelette) I tried their salmon (from Petrossian) version and also the magret de canard/dried tomato sandwich. And for the Berko fans, that's who's providing the cheesecakes on their menu.

While cocktal bars like the ECC trio, la Conserverie and le Forum are now Paris standards in superior cocktails, the Club belongs to what I consider Paris' second wave of noteable cocktail activity. After a taste for a better crafted cocktail has been instilled by the forerunners on the cocktail scene, we're beginning to see existing or new bars who are reaching for something more than just a basic mojito and giving more thought to ingredients and methods. No bones about it: the Club is not another craft cocktail lounge or haven for hardcore cocktail geeks - but they're not trying to be. Their aim seems to be a focus on a smaller and simpler selection and injecting a bit of fun with food and cocktails into an area that is a notorious cocktail dead zone. If the service remains as accommodating and friendly as it was last night and they maintain the quality of their ingredients, I'd say this will be a valid option for a decent drink in the area with a good price/quality ratio.

Admittedly, it's difficult to objectively review a place when you attend an event that removes you from the normal customer experience. So, readers, I encourage you to report back on your own experiences there. And that reminds me of another fun aspect of writing a cocktail blog: great readers. You ask good questions, give good information and are generally just pleasant to interact with. So, I'll take this opportunity to say "Thank you, Readers. You're a good lot!"

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Monday, April 18, 2011

Anything's possible cocktail adventures: Echelle de Jacob

Echelle de Jacob
10-12 rue Jacob
75006 Paris
tel: 01 46 34 00 29

Echelle de Jacob means Jacob's Ladder in English. So, what is Jacob's Ladder? It's a biblical stairway to heaven. It's a children's game played with string. It's a disturbing movie circa 1990. And, it's also a cocktail bar found on rue Jacob in Paris' Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter where "toutes les nuits deviennent un autre jour où tout est possible."* How to resist the lure of such a romantic claim?

In addition to the promise of possibility, Echelle de Jacob is oft referred to as a New York style 'private club' with an impressive cocktail list. Not knowing exactly what was meant by 'private club' I emailed to reserve and was told they'd be happy to receive us at 7pm on the appointed day. Arriving on time, I was surprised to find it closed. Fortunately, the convivial barman allowed me to cozy up in a corner and wait for Matt and Vio while the evening's entertainment did their sound check. Back in the 50's, this locale was a popular cabaret, serving as a starting point for iconic french lyrical talent such as Brel and Brassens. Staying true to their musical beginnings, Echelle de Jacob still pulls in bands and musicians for a night crawling crowd of regulars.

The cocktail menu features 12 'martinis' including a chocolate martini, velvet martini and ginger martini. Three drinks veer from the martini theme: cosmo, sex on the beach and the eponymous Jacob (cranberry, citrus, strawberry, mint and your choice of rum, gin or vodka - or virgin). They also note on the menu that you can ask for whatever that suits your fancy. Cocktails are mainly vodka based with a few bubblies thrown into the mix. Spirits are heavily weighted towards whiskies (with 10+ on offer). For gin we have the choice of either Tanqueray or Hayman's Old Tom

Order any cocktail on the menu and it will set you back 12 Euros. Unless....you order the most expensive drink on the menu (which of course I did) at 15 Euros: a Dry Martini. My Tanqueray martini looked okay on arrival, but on tasting, i realized it was made with sweet rather than dry vermouth. When the barman came around to ask how I liked it, i hesitated. My pause caused him to press. i hate know-it-all customers and i don't want to be one, but at that moment i decided if someone asks your opinion, let's assume they want to hear it. So...

I suggested that dry martinis are normally made with dry vermouth. And (not for the first time) i got schooled by a french barman telling me that a dry martini is gin and sweet vermouth. He explained that in America 'where martinis were invented' that's how they drink them. At the end of his explanation on how Americans drink cocktails, he asked me where i was from. Oh, the irony.

Cocktails aside, I like this spot. It's dim, dark, candlelit and heavy on the velour. The small space is intimate without being cloying. The service is pleasant without being kiss-ass. In the bigger scheme of things they'll be hard pressed to compete with other bars in the area that either make stand out cocktails (Prescription, L'Hotel) or cater to an American audience (Ralph's).

In general, Echelle de Jacob feels like it's past its prime. And, i bet that's a big draw for loyal regulars, whether they realize it or not. With their pseudo strict door policy, unapologetic cocktail list and hints at former glory, there's something appealing here. Not necessarily the cocktails. But, maybe a coupe de champagne at 10 Euros and a bit of fun music. And, i just love the promise of the possibilities that a new day brings.


*every night becomes another day and anything is possible.

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Monday, April 4, 2011

Pizza Cocktail Adventures: Grazie

Grazie
91 blvd
Beaum
archais
Paris
75003
Tel:
01 42
78 11
96

Arriving on the scene in the shadow of cool-as-heck big sister (Merci concept store) Grazie is already turning heads with distressed industrial chic decor and wagging tongues with superior pizza and cocktail rumours. So, a week after its opening Kim and I were on the stools checking out and chatting with Oscar, the tatooed Italiano behind the bar.

The first thing I noticed was not the pleasant deviation from the common speakeasy/lounge style or the stepped up class for a pizza joint. The first thing I noticed was the smell. Something good was cooking in the large stone pizza oven visible from the open kitchen. I mentioned to Kim that the smell and the style combination reminded me of San Fransisco. I'm not even really sure what I meant by that, but Melanie made the same comment when she arrived so perhaps there is something to it.

Originally just up from Italy to consult on bar set up, Oscar ended up staying to work. The cocktail menu hints at his Italian origins in its offerings (Aperol Spritz), ingredients (Cynar) and cheeky names like 8 1/2 or the Pimm's Italiano. The 24 cocktails range in price from 9 to 15 Euros and comprise a respectable mix of traditional classics, tweaked classics and house creations. Plus, you gotta love a menu with a breakfast cocktail on it (Breakfast Martini.) The bar stock is small but very solid with an extremely impressive choice for a Paris bar (they're working with the nice people over at LMDW Fine Spirits). Gins on offer include Brokers, Plymouth Navy Strength, Gin Mare, No. 3, Monkey 47, Bulldog and Hendrick's.

I'd never tried Monkey 47 in a martini, so I went with that. It was expertly made and the Monkey 47 has a distinct crisp and bitter flavor that I personally found a welcome change of pace for my martini. [Although for those of you who don't drink martinis all the time, I'd recommend something a bit more classic from their choice.]

We had a larger group than usual for a Wed so I got to sample several different drinks. Bloody Mary fans should try the two bloody mary riffs (one including sake and wasabi and the other with Hendricks gin.) Other group favorites included la Vie en Rose, the Mediterranean gin and tonic (with a spray of house-flavoured salt) and the Speakeasy.

As we worked our way through the menu, the bar got progressively more packed. And, this is when Oscar went from from damn good to excellent in my estimation. He didn't let the growing crowds pressure him into time-saving measures of dropping nice touches like using tongs instead of fingers to handle straws. He maintined his cocktail making standards but still knocked out drinks at an acceptable pace. Other little extras that impress are the attention to mixers (Fever tree tonic over Schweppes) and the beautiful bar and glassware.

We would have loved to have scored a table for some pizza tasting, but the place was already booked up for the week. Instead, the friendly staff served us at the bar. And the these pizzas are the perfect accompaniment to the cocktails. When a drinks menu is so tempting, upscale carby goodness is the ideal way to soak up any overindulgence. And these pizzas aren't just belly-fillers - they'll draw as much clientele on their own as the cocktails.

Overall, Grazie is a great deviation from the Paris norms. I think Oscar is injecting some quality novelty into Paris' nicely growing cocktail scene. I already made ressies for pizza and cocktails with the girls there next week to further explore. But, for now, Grazie seems to be more than earning the hype it's generated.

What? you still want more info on this hotspot? Check out Kim's post on I Heart Paris.

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Monday, March 28, 2011

Taco Cocktail Adventures: Candelaria

Candelaria
52 rue de Saintonge
75003 Paris
03 42 74 41 28

I like a challenge. I like the satisfaction of a new and unusual discovery. In Paris, the wine is free-flowing and there are more palate pleasing French bistros than I can manage. And, while I'm a serious fan of both, some of my favorite consumables are a bit more elusive here: cocktails and Mexican food.

As if they intuited my unfulfilled cravings, enter duo Carina Soto Velasquez (previously of Experimental Cocktail Club) and Josh Fontaine (previously of Curio Parlor) and their new venture, Candalaria - Paris' first taqeuria/cocktail bar combo! I'd been impatiently waiting for this opening for awhile and just to guild the lily on my first visit, I had the pleasure of sharing the table with some of Paris' finest and funnest of residents and writers, Heather, David, Zeva, Meg, Phyllis, Lisa and Barbra.

We were lucky enough to score the only available table in this authentically bright and buzzing taqueria. The rest of the tiny taco joint was busting with hungry locals lined along the counter and partaking in spicy snacks. The friendly staff manage to maintain their cool through the mayhem to cook and serve a selection of tacos, tostados and Mexican beer. In short: Candelaria is delivering fun, festive and freakin' good food.

After appeasing our appetites, we squeezed through the throngs to the unmarked door at the back: the door of juxtaposition. Here patrons pass from the fast and festive dining area into a nocturnal cocktail hideaway for sophisticated lounge lovers. At first glance of the menu (at 11 to 12 Euros/cocktail), you already know that there is serious cocktail intent behind it with special creations featured from the likes of Toby Cecchini and Joaquin Simo of the NYC's Death & Co.

Being familiar with both Josh and Carina's work behind the bar, I skipped my usual martini to experience something that they hadn't mixed for me previously. Carina graciously indulged us with a requested round of tall and tasty margaritas (even though they are not on the menu or normally available in the taqueria.) My second sampling was La Gueppe Verte (pepper infused tequila, cucumber, coriander, agave, lavender and lime.) I loved it. The balance of the pepper heat and cucumber refreshment was spot on. If it hadn't been so busy, I may have showed less restraint and stayed on to try some of their other ten promising cocktails on offer. But we'd already had a full evening of food, beers and spirits, so I called it a night but was already planning a return for some serious cocktail exploration at the bar.

Josh, Carina and their crew have more than met my challenge of finding super Mexican nosh and superlative cocktails. So, now maybe I'll find some other unusual nibbles to hunt for in Paris. But, in the meantime, I'll definitely be indulging my taco and tipple cravings at Candelaria.

For more pictures and another take on our evening, you can check out Heather Stimmler-Hall's post over at Secrets of Paris.

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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Shaken and Stirred Cocktail Adventures: Seven Hotel

Seven Hotel
20 rue Berthollet
75005 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 31 47 52

Most modern cocktail enthusiasts will tell you that Bond had it wrong. But regardless of shaken or stirred, there's no denying the longstanding pop-culture link between the king of cocktails and the super sexy secret agent. So I made my way to the Seven Hotel - home of the 007 Suite and Bond-themed evenings - to see if they shake or stir.

Seven had been on my radar for awhile both for its sleek modern glitz and the fact that Carina Soto Velasquez was doing some consulting behind their bar. However, even with Carina's added cocktail cred, I still wasn't hearing wildly enthusiastic reports from fellow bar-hoppers and industry types. I met up there with Matt, Vio and Amy to decide for myself.

This boutique hotel is busting with ultra glam-kitsch touches and the lounge is no exception. I love the 'floating' glass balls, soft, comfortable high-back chairs and modern bar. However, the lighting level could drop a notch or two to take it from bright hotel-bar to something more worthy of a sexy evening tipple or cocktail tryst.

My (stirred) martini was well-made and my only issue with it was self-inflicted. I had requested Citadelle for a change. The drink was good but affirmed once again that Citadelle is not my preferred gin for a martini. I like Citadelle, but I think it's better suited for a G&T - and that's, indeed, how they offer it on their cocktail menu. Amy and her husband had dirty martinis which they enjoyed. Vio's Caribbean in Wonderland included two kinds of rum and other goodies like fresh lime juice, ginger infused simple syrup and fever tree soda.

Each of the seven cocktails (at 12 - 13 Euros) corresponds with one of the seven themed suites and showcase solid consulting influence. The menu is interesting and varied - using a range of spirits - but still approachable for cocktail newbies who may be used to more vodka-heavy offerings. In addition to the choice, I appreciate the options of fresh juices, interesting bitters and egg white.

Another thing that brought them to my attention is their selection of absinthe. For a small bar that is not dedicated to the green fairy, their eleven choice Absinthe menu is respectable. Although 'cocktails' are offered as an option on the Absinthe menu, the friendly barman seemed to have few ideas and I get the impression that most people who order it here don't bother mixing it with anything but water. He suggested a Green Beast, which while good and refreshing would not be my personal favorite for an absinthe based cocktail.

Ultimately, I like this place. It's a fun address to keep in mind for a glam yet relaxed cocktail. What I assume is Carina's influence in the menu and stock give them a potential leg up over many Paris cocktail bars. My concern is that without the consistent influence of serious bar talent, they will remain simply a sleek and funky hotel bar with good drinks instead of venturing into consistently exceptional cocktail territory. And, I do recommend it for anyone who wants to indulge Casino Royal fantasies by ordering their Vesper - which does come 'shaken, not stirred.'

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Monday, December 13, 2010

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: le Pompon

Le Pompon
39 Rue des Petites Ecuries
Paris 75010
Tel: 01 53 34 60 85

I'd heard rumors about reputable bar and design talent either potentially, marginally, temporarily or fully involved in le Pompon for some time before its opening a few months ago. So, I was looking forward to checking up on it with Matt, Vio and Kim.

When we arrived at this up and coming newbie in the 10th, it was quickly filling up with a motley after-work crowd. Kim noted that it's a nightspot which can easily draw a varied customer base. I agree and like that aspect. But, perhaps they're drawing crowds too successfully as it took quite a bit of time to actually place a drink order while standing directly at the bar.

Your first impression of le Pompon is the relatively spacious main room, packed with lively tables of patrons, large windows, high wooden walls and impressive chandeliers: cosy and updated pub-chic.

When I finally got a chance to order, I asked for a dry gin martini (not on the menu). When the barman grabbed a bottle of sweet vermouth from the shelf, I prepared to address the usual French martini dilemma (i.e. I wanted a dry gin martini not a glass of Martini sweet vermouth.) But, he explained that he knew what I wanted, but they were out of dry vermouth so he was using sweet instead.

I'm laughing to myself in an 'are you kidding?' kind of way. It's basically a case of "We don't really have what you want, but we're just going to make what we feel like and give it to you anyway." I got a highball of gin and sweet vermouth with a straw. Mine wasn't the only adlib-recipe. I'm still working on my backlog of bars for which I lost photos and notes, but if I remember correctly, Kim ordered something without tonic that arrived blatantly boasting tonic. I believe this lack of attention to detail will set you back about 10 Euros a drink. The barman did show follow-through in coming over to ask how I liked my drink and was sincerely curious and non-defensive when I explained how I would have done it differently.

After our first round, we went for a quick peak at the lower level before leaving. Slipping through the somewhat discreet door at the foot of the stairs, provides a completely different level of ambiance where a small bar oversees a dim dance floor with DJ. I love the juxtaposition of these two rooms and wish Paris would offer up more varied venues like this. Happy with this discovery, we settled in for an impromptu second round. In the basement, drink options are limited to a handful of spirits and mixers for basic well drinks. I had a rum and coke. No comment.

Overall, the place is fun, nicely designed and promises to be a sure-thing address for a majority of both the after-work and night-crawling crowd. While not every bar in town is obligated to make a decent martini, that's my thing. So even if I really like the space, I gotta call them out on their cocktails. With the vague rumors I continue to hear about behind the scene decisions here, I believe it will take a little time before le Pompon works out the drink kinks and hits full stride as either a place serving really good cocktails or your basic beer and well drinks. In the meantime, they're worth a visit for a pint and some good music.

PHOTO NOTE: I finally replaced my camera, so this is my second to last post without my usual photos. Kim gets credit for those on today's post and you can check out even more on her Pompon post at I Heart Paris.

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Saturday, October 30, 2010

Mojito Cocktail Adventures: Bacardi Mojito Lab

Bacardi Mojito Lab
28 rue Keller
75011 PARIS
Tel : (+33) 1 75 77 23 95

Forest fact: I should probably be ashamed to admit the following, but I'm kind of fascinated by living statue buskers. I always wonder what they do at the end of a shift. Do they take the metro home in full get-up? Do they sit still as a statue on the ride? It seems that I secretly like to watch these spectacles that everyone mocks. I get a kick out of mimes. I own contact juggling balls that I will learn to use some day and wow you with my skills. So, it might not surprise you to hear that I'm also a little fascinated by flair. But that's between me and YouTube....in the privacy of my own home.

However, when it comes to cocktails, I don't need or want living statues, mimes, flair or even contact juggling balls involved, so let's chat a bit about the recently opened flair-o-rific Bacardi/Laurent Greco project: the Bacardi Mojito Lab. Allen and I popped in and found that Wednesdays are "afterworks." From 19h00 to 21h00 it's 25 Euros to get in the door, which gets you two drinks and buffet table grazing.

50 Euros lighter, in we go. Hello, circa 1980's all-inclusive spring break destination dance club! Dim lighting, acid green touches, pumping dance music...you get the picture. The buffet tables were classed up (I use that lightly) with single red roses in tall vases and scattered petals. Flair videos loop on screens from wall to wall. While, I've been told flair bartending is still quite big in France, this is the first place I've actually seen it.

The food was nice little bite-sized nibblies for a buffet, but the set up was annoying. No plates, no napkins - so you either sat directly at the buffet table to pop bites in your mouth while others reached around you to grab said bites, or you reached around the people sitting at the buffet tables. For drinks, you go downstairs.

And downstairs it's all Bacardi and all mojito, mojito or mojito, but with a bit of flair. Sexy barboys toss around shakers and take your order for one of the three mojito variations on offer during the afterworks. This is also a point of contention with me because when the doorman explained the Afterwork concept at 25 Euros, I specifically asked if it applied to the whole menu - because that's what I was here to check out. He said 'yes.' But, no - you get classic, souped up or raspberry mojito. All the other gimmicky, tricked out mojitos are only on offer after the afterworks. On the normal menu, drinks range from 8 to 14 Euros and include things like cotton candy or caviar (cocktail kind, not fish kind)

In an attempt to not be a complete crank, there were a few things I liked. The staff - though a bit spacey - were friendly. I really liked the mint wall and the mint window. I think the boutique, which sells various types of mint and kaffir limes (although not the night we were there) was a fun touch. They also have a smoking room for those who don't want to brave the cold winter months (although it was closed the night we were there.)

I'm not sure what kind of a crowd they expect to draw. They're at Bastille with so many competing (and probably cheaper) bars nearby. You can't spit without hitting a bar in Paris that serve mojitos, so I'm curious as to what they think the attraction will be. I've been told this is a popup - so perhaps they're banking on their ephemeral status for interest. They also offer classes if you want to learn to flair up a mojito at home.

As for me, the only time I want a mojito is if it's being made by old and stoic Felix at dodgy local Bar Castillo de Farnes in Havana where Che and Fidel toasted the revolution (true story - there he is in he picutre). And, he definitely doesn't do flair. Otherwise, Paris, you can keep your mojito trend and I'll stick with the martini search.

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Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: La Cigale

Cafe La Cigale
124, boulevard Rochechouart
Paris 75018
Tel:
+33. 1 55 79 10 10


I love my neighborhood: a few steps to the left of my front door is the perpetually white Sacre Coeur and a few steps to the right lies the seedy strip of Pigalle. While this juxtaposition sates my craving for both typically touristy Paris as well a bit of city-underbelly, it's not the finest area for cocktailing. So, I was looking forward to trying the nearby and relatively new Café Cigale with Kim of I Heart Paris and usual Wednesday company, Matt, Vio & Mel.


I was curious to see how formidable Paris names such as Starck and Costes would handle this NoPi venture. (still not sure I'm on board with the trend of NY-style naming of Parisian neighborhoods, but anyway....) This self-proclaimed rock pub is flanked by music venue la Cigale and the lively and well-established cafe, La Fourmi.

I didn't immediately warm to the space. The high ceilings made it feel empty, the post-industrial decor made it feel cold, the chalked-up walls made it feel wannabe-edgy and the hard wooden chairs made it feel uncomfortable. I am, however, a sucker for the dining nooks along the wall, which were a warm respite in an otherwise, hard and cool environment.

Café Cigale is unwilling to stray off menu for drinks, leaving clients with a choice of 13 or so mainly vodka based house creations at 10 to 12 Euros each. Without my option of the usual martini, I took one of two gin-based drinks on offer, the Mr (rum, raspberries, blueberries, redcurrants and ginger ale.) While I can see how it would appeal to a certain crowd, it lacked the finesse of a finely tuned cocktail. These drinks will appeal to a crowd that likes their mixed drinks fruit forward and spirit subtle (and if that's your stick - and I won't hold it against you if it is- go give 'em a sip) Mel had an Amour (vodka, ginger, apple juice and red fruits) which came with the shaker alongside for top ups.

They seem to excel at those little touches meant to impress. I followed my Mr with a rum and coke which was delivered 'deconstructed' with the coke in a pretty glass pitcher. Amongst us we only tried a few of the cocktails and agreed that they were only impressive in terms of size and strength by Paris standards. Spirits seems to be limited with 1 - 3 choices in each category (e.g. Gordon's and Tanqueray Gin) No one ventured the eponymous Cigale with energy drink as one of the ingredients. (energy drink cocktail….sigh....)

One sure thing they have going on is the large terrace. Maybe the best way to enjoy this space is to hit it in sunny weather for a beer and a bite from their small but nice-looking brunch, light snack or full course menu.

We, on the other hand, decided to move on to SoPi for beer and wine consumption at the nearby Sans Souci where a heaving mass of regulars spills out onto the streets and doesn’t bother with cocktails at this neighborhood bar lacking airs and pretention. And, that’s basically the type of bar that I find works in my neighborhood: laid-back locals. Yet I won’t give up the search for excellent cocktails on my doorstep!

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Thursday, August 12, 2010

La Conserverie

37 bis, rue du Sentier
75002 Paris
Tel: 01 40 26 14 94

As some of you know, I like to throw around bit of Forest philosophy from time to time. Here’s today’s: You never know if you’ve surpassed your full potential until you’ve failed. I’ll let you chew on that for a bit while I get on with the blog post for my latest adventure at a worthwhile and unique Paris address: La Conserverie.

The entry signage of this two level restaurant/bar is of the subtle variety. Clients are greeted by elegantly eclectic utility-chic decor and dangerously comfy sofas, chairs and sturdy tables strategically grouped around this lounge lovers’ haven.

I started with a well made Hendrick’s martini (of which I forgot to snap a pic) and scanned the large menu, which includes food and drink. Their restaurant hook is interesting: they serve exclusively conserved goodies. While I haven’t sampled the fare myself, word on the street is that they’re selecting from the finest and tastiest, so don’t let that aspect deter you from giving it a try.

But, more to my point: the cocktails. The gin selection offers up some happy finds for Paris such as Plymouth Navy Strength, Hayman’s Old Tom, G’Vine, Citadelle and Junipero. After typical apero choices, there are six house creations (including the Maurizzio, which is a mojito jazzed up with champagne and balsamic vinegar). Additionally there are classics and reinterpreted classics. The more vodka-heavy category is the one dedicated to “strong cocktails” (which includes a Vesper). The menu seems to rely more on fresh fruit, veg, herb and spice than some of my usual stops. Some drinks include whimsy such as a dish of pop rocks on the side. Others incorporate egg-white. Prices hover around 12 to 14 Euros.

Oliver, the marketing manger, is usually on the scene and a friendly, accommodating host-type. And, Timothé, with carte blanche to work the cocktails, is the one making the magic the bar. He’s enthusiastic and passionate about what he’s doing and is working on developing interesting drinks based on fresh ingredients. They’re turning out nice tipples here without just following trends. This low-key locale has already garnered a lot of loyal followers without bold signs and brash advertising.

After a rather lengthy cocktail discussion with myself and fellow cocktail enthusiast, Marco, Timothé offered to create a custom drink to my taste. He took a handful of fresh herbs, crushed them in the glass, dumped them and poured in Juniper. Marco and I both tasted, liked the intent behind it and the choice of Juniper but didn’t declare it a complete success.

Serving someone basically a glass of warm gin is a ballsy move. While not a total failure, it could have been better. And, that’s exactly the kind of move that will take Timothe’s cocktails beyond exceptionally good to exceptionally great. His willingness to take educated risks (in this case based on my tastes & ingredients), listen to criticism and move beyond a comfort zone will allow him to find that point of full potential that you can only reach just before failure - and you can’t get there without a few near-misses.

p.s. Dear Doubters: don’t worry about getting the same cocktail I did. I’m probably the only person in Paris who can rock into a bar and end up with a glass of gin. Trust me. Just go and you will like it.

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