Cocktail Shopping Adventures: LMDW Fine Spirits

LMDW Fine Spirits
6 carrefour de l'Odéon
75006 Paris

Since opening its doors a little over a year ago, the LMDW Fine Spirits has established itself as the premier spirits shop in Paris. Always a good bet for hard to find alcohols; this is one of my favorite stops for a bit of boozy shopping. And, now they’ve got something new to boast about with their recent foray into aged cocktails.

LMDW Fine Spirits is a slick and modern three level bottle shop run by a knowledgeable team of spirits experts and enthusiasts. With a range of over 1,500 different offerings (including a large selection of bitters), capable staff and sampling opportunities, it’s hard to get out of here without dropping a bit of cash.

More than just a high-end boutique, LMDW Fine Spirits actively engages with their clientele through both paid and free events and tastings for new or unusual spirits. Their Cocktail Corners – brand-sponsored ephemeral bars – give customers a chance not just to discover different products, but see how they might be used in cocktails.

And in keeping with recent cocktail trends to hit Paris, they are now offering aged cocktails. Although this is not the first we’ve seen of aged cocktails in Paris – newcomer L’Entree des Artistes is doing it as well – this is the first time we’re seeing them for sale by the bottle or barrel.

They’ve just tapped the first batch of various cocktails which includes classics such as Martinez, Manhattans and Negronis as well as new creations like the Harvard and Botzaris. The five liter rum and cognac barrels come from Pierre Ferrand. The finished product can be purchased by the bottle or barrel – which I think would be a fun way to go for a classy cocktail party at home. For those who want to try their hand at aged cocktails, I believe you can purchase the barrel and get enough input to give it a serious go.

Overall LMDW Fine Spirits is my go to for when I’m looking for the whole cocktail shopping experience: large selection, dependable advice and excellent service all wrapped up in a pretty package.

Old Fav Cocktail Adventures: Prescription Cocktail Club

Prescription Cocktail Club

23 rue Mazarine

75006 Paris

Tel: 01 46 34 67 73

One of the reasons I write about nearly every place I visit - whether good or bad - is that I don’t want readers to assume that if a bar is not on the blog it's bad by default. But there's been an omission on my blog for much too long, which I must rectify because 52 martinis is not complete without it: Prescription Cocktail Club.

I visited Paris’ third ECC bar shortly after it opened and was pleased to see they maintained the same level of quality and service as their first two ventures (Experimental Cocktail Club and Curio Parlor.) I sidled up to the bar often and chatted with charming and capable bar staff - frequently staying much later than I had initially planned. So how could it be that after so many visits I hadn't garnered material for a post? The fact is I kept it as a go-to spot where I could kick back with a cocktail and leave the notes and picture taking behind.

And that's what makes Prescription so enjoyable. The trio behind this bar has long-established their cocktail cred so there's no need to constantly survey the service - all you need to do is sit back and trust that your drink will be well-executed whether a classic vieux carré made with Rittenhouse or a new creation. The menu also gives a nod to well-established cocktail notables with drinks like the Gin Gin Mule à la Audrey Saunders as well as offering up a selection of finger foods.

In fact, the group behind this bar has so successfully established their cocktail credibility that they've branched out into other highly competitive drinking markets with a cocktail bar in London, another in New York and, recently, a fourth Paris venue exclusively for wine.

Prescription oozes the same lounge lover style as their other spots. While the downstairs bar is the perfect place to pull up a stool and watch the bartenders work, the upstairs holds a second bar hidden behind a bookshelf to cater to the bigger crowds on busier nights (and things do get much busier late night and weekends.) Dim lighting and cool decor transport patrons to a clandestine hideaway where it's easy to forget the outside world and responsibilities - even enjoyable ones like writing about said cocktail bar.

So, although there are plenty of pretty fresh faces turning heads on the Paris cocktail scene at the moment, that doesn't mean that a faithful old companion doesn't deserve some attention.

Chocolate Cocktail Adventures: Un Dimanche a Paris

Un Dimanche a Paris
4-6-8 Cour du Commerce Saint André
75006 Paris
Tél: 01 56 81 18 18

Admittedly, I have my vices. However, sweets aren't one of them. I'm by no means a chocoholic and can easily pass up the dessert cart for any cheese plate. So while I wouldn't trek across town to check out a chocolatière, this Pierre Cluizel spot piqued my interest. First, blogger buzz brought it to my attention. Then I got an email from the friendly Claire over at Cognac Ferrand suggesting I try their cocktails. And, finally I read this post which mentioned (among other pertinent things, of course) the size of the barman's waist. Wouldn't you be curious?

I was. So, I set off to un Dimanche a Paris for an early evening drink (the lounge opens at 4pm) to assess both the barman and his skills with Heather and David as my cohorts. The first floor of this slick, bright chocolate concept store houses the shop, restaurant and tearoom. Upstairs is the laid back lounge with its blond wood floors and comfortable jewel tone sofas and chairs which invite lingering. The highlight in the center is a portion of the over 800 year old Philippe August tower showcased behind plexiglass.

The second highlight was the charmingly good-looking barman, Mikael who greeted us and gave the rundown. All of their cocktails include chocolate and are served slightly warmer than usual to allow appreciation of its flavor in the drink. Instead of offering a set menu, Mikael determines customers' likes and dislikes to create custom cocktails based on their tastes. And, he's more than just an pleasantly animate cocktail menu - he's also got some big names on his C.V. having previously worked abroad for both Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon.

My first cocktail was a martini-themed mixture of Potocki vodka, Combier eau de vie de cacao, chocolate and orange bitters and a housemade mixture of cocoa and Sichuan pepper. I don't do chocolate martinis, but this was a step above the overly sweet choc-tails normally served and the peppery addition was a nice touch. Round two was a combo of tequila, grapefruit, Campari, orange and chocolate bitters. Unfortunately, I didn't take notes on the cocktails he made for the others, but if I remember correctly, there was fruit involved. There are some interesting additions to the small bar stock that you won't find in many bars, like the Monkey 47.

You definitely won't get a standard martini or Manhattan here. What makes this bar stand out is the one-on-one interaction. Mikael is clearly enthusiastic about his work and takes pride in creating something unique for the clientele. In response to a few questions about Combier, he brought it out with a bottle of Cointreau alongside for us to taste the difference. David even scored a little bottle of Cointreau Cuisine to take home for a bit of cooking fun. We also got to sample a few of the sweets. Fortunately, the bar is quiet enough to allow for this kind of more personal dialogue with the customer. Although, as I've mentioned before, I do think that bars with no menus should have some indication of pricing, so customers have an idea of what they're in for. In this case, you're in for about 15 Euros a cocktail.

So, while I'm more of a cheese than chocolate girl, this is an interesting deviation from the standard cocktail fare for sophisticated sippers with a sweet tooth.

*update: Mikael is no longer working the bar here and is currently over at Flute

Anything's possible cocktail adventures: Echelle de Jacob

Echelle de Jacob
10-12 rue Jacob
75006 Paris
tel: 01 46 34 00 29

Echelle de Jacob means Jacob's Ladder in English. So, what is Jacob's Ladder? It's a biblical stairway to heaven. It's a children's game played with string. It's a disturbing movie circa 1990. And, it's also a cocktail bar found on rue Jacob in Paris' Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter where "toutes les nuits deviennent un autre jour où tout est possible."* How to resist the lure of such a romantic claim?

In addition to the promise of possibility, Echelle de Jacob is oft referred to as a New York style 'private club' with an impressive cocktail list. Not knowing exactly what was meant by 'private club' I emailed to reserve and was told they'd be happy to receive us at 7pm on the appointed day. Arriving on time, I was surprised to find it closed. Fortunately, the convivial barman allowed me to cozy up in a corner and wait for Matt and Vio while the evening's entertainment did their sound check. Back in the 50's, this locale was a popular cabaret, serving as a starting point for iconic french lyrical talent such as Brel and Brassens. Staying true to their musical beginnings, Echelle de Jacob still pulls in bands and musicians for a night crawling crowd of regulars.

The cocktail menu features 12 'martinis' including a chocolate martini, velvet martini and ginger martini. Three drinks veer from the martini theme: cosmo, sex on the beach and the eponymous Jacob (cranberry, citrus, strawberry, mint and your choice of rum, gin or vodka - or virgin). They also note on the menu that you can ask for whatever that suits your fancy. Cocktails are mainly vodka based with a few bubblies thrown into the mix. Spirits are heavily weighted towards whiskies (with 10+ on offer). For gin we have the choice of either Tanqueray or Hayman's Old Tom

Order any cocktail on the menu and it will set you back 12 Euros. Unless....you order the most expensive drink on the menu (which of course I did) at 15 Euros: a Dry Martini. My Tanqueray martini looked okay on arrival, but on tasting, i realized it was made with sweet rather than dry vermouth. When the barman came around to ask how I liked it, i hesitated. My pause caused him to press. i hate know-it-all customers and i don't want to be one, but at that moment i decided if someone asks your opinion, let's assume they want to hear it. So...

I suggested that dry martinis are normally made with dry vermouth. And (not for the first time) i got schooled by a french barman telling me that a dry martini is gin and sweet vermouth. He explained that in America 'where martinis were invented' that's how they drink them. At the end of his explanation on how Americans drink cocktails, he asked me where i was from. Oh, the irony.

Cocktails aside, I like this spot. It's dim, dark, candlelit and heavy on the velour. The small space is intimate without being cloying. The service is pleasant without being kiss-ass. In the bigger scheme of things they'll be hard pressed to compete with other bars in the area that either make stand out cocktails (Prescription, L'Hotel) or cater to an American audience (Ralph's).

In general, Echelle de Jacob feels like it's past its prime. And, i bet that's a big draw for loyal regulars, whether they realize it or not. With their pseudo strict door policy, unapologetic cocktail list and hints at former glory, there's something appealing here. Not necessarily the cocktails. But, maybe a coupe de champagne at 10 Euros and a bit of fun music. And, i just love the promise of the possibilities that a new day brings.


*every night becomes another day and anything is possible.

St Germain Cocktail Adventures

Popup St Germain Cocktail Corner at LMDW Fine Spirits

6 carrefour de l'Odeon

75006 Paris

Tel: 01 46 34 70 20

I've mentioned before that one of the fun parts of writing a cocktail blog is meeting other interesting cocktail-minded people when they pass through Paris. Another upside is getting to take part in various cocktail related events. Earlier this month I made a stop into La Maison du Whiskey's new boutique (LMDW Fine Spirits) for the Women’s Spirit Society St Germain tasting.

I'm admittedly a bit reserved when it comes to brand sponsored events and bars. But, if I like the brand, I'm more than happy to get on board. And, I do like St Germain. Although it's made in France (from hand-picked elderflower blossoms), when it hit the scene and became a bit of a darling in the cocktail world, it was nearly impossible to find here. I'm happy to see it being featured in Paris now - as are my friends in the U.S. who no longer have to lug bottles over for me.

The nice people of LMDW and St Germain made it an enjoyable evening with munchies, an informative tasting and the "St Germain Cocktail Corner" upstairs. I was happy to see Carina (formerly of the Experimental Cocktail Club) behind the bar and even happier after she mixed me up a delicious Amaro Sour. Towards the end of the evening, her fellow barman, Stan, impressed with a fire-y display of St Germain Blazers.

Sounds fun, no? Well, you don’t have to write a cocktail blog to try these tasty concoctions. During December the Cocktail Corner has been open to the public on Thursday and Friday evenings. I passed by last night and had a Traditional Elderfashion (St Germain, Elijah Craig 12 year Bourbon, bitters).

So, stop into the store, ogle the many pretty bottles lining the shelves on the main floor and then head upstairs to the pop-up bar. But, time’s running out. The Cocktail Corner is only open one more night: 23 December from 6:00 to 9:00 PM. So make a point to pass through and try one of those yummy Amaro sours or the featured drink of the night the Sake Blossom.

American Cocktail Adventures: Ralph's

173 Boulevard Saint-Germain
75006 Paris
Tel: 01 44 77 77 00

I hate being told no. On two previous attempts at cocktails in the bar of Ralph Lauren’s eponymous restaurant I called ahead to make sure they were open, yet arrived to find them closed for a private function or not open at all. On both occasions I grumbled to the staff how annoying it was to make the trip after confirming by phone and was met with typical French insouciance and no hint of apology. That ensures I’d be turning an especially critical eye to this spot when I finally made it past the uniformed doormen.

Friend and fab fellow-blogger, Kim, joined me and we made our way through the sweet courtyard dining area, which she rightly remarked has a Costes vibe. Happily the bar decor does not disappoint. The space is small with just a few tables nestled up against comfy leather booths scattered with a mix of large plaid and faux fur throw pillows. Horsey pictures hang from the walls and the tabletops are finished with small vases of pretty red roses. The high and exposed wooden beam ceilings give it a warm and cozy feel without being claustrophobic.

The menu is divided into house creations, American cocktails, classic cocktails and martini cocktails. Inexplicably a couple of the drinks are mentioned under both the classic and American headings. Of note: it's overflowing with typos, misspellings and illogical switches between French and English. “Wiskies” feature prominently on the menu and we had difficulty guessing what “citron ass” might be. And perhaps this menu code-switching gives an indication of what to expect: an establishment that cannot commit to being either entirely American or decidedly French.

The waitress/bartender was friendly enough but clearly a bit hesitant and uncertain about what she was doing. But big points on the bar snacks of sugared and rosemary nut mix and fried okra (yum!) My martini was a stirred a Tanqueray, Noilly Prat. I wasn’t given the option of a twist or olive and got a much too thick twist. However, the temperature and proportions were good and overall it was a pleasant enough drink that I didn't feel gouged at 15 Euros. Kim ordered a cosmo, which was a bit too heavy on the citrus, but otherwise handled correctly.

While tasty enough, Kim’s second choice of a mint julep, could have been better executed. The mint was a swampy mess and the ice was cubed rather than crushed. I also think a julep cup rather than a glass would be better in a place that considers themselves on the posh side. I also had an Americano about which I have no complaints.

We were unexpectedly joined in the bar by a frisky little mouse scurrying along the moldings. When we pointed it out to the French waitress she joked (in French) that we were in an American establishment so it was Mickey Mouse. I found that an amusing “save” but still felt like they could have been a bit more apologetic and even offered something to improve the visit. Really I don’t think either of us were terribly bothered by the mouse. But, again, it’s a nice place and little furry critters scampering about really freak some people out.

Speaking of fellow clientele, I am slightly concerned that those frequenting Ralph's could lean a bit more towards the pearl and twin set or obnoxious noveau riche Americans than is to my liking. But after spending a few hours here, we had the place basically to ourselves.

While I haven't tried the American-style food here, you can read a good report on it by Phyllis over at Paris Notebook. And for a better idea of the decor, check out Kim's pictures of it over on I Heart Paris (she also gets credit for the photos on this blog post).

So I must do as Ralph's does and say both yes and no. With its limited range of spirits and clear lack of serious cocktail consultation in setting up the bar, this is not a drinking destination for hyper-cocktail-critics. Notwithstanding, for its prices, I think the bar is charming and discrete and will keep this address for a leisurely drink with a friend or a romantic tête-a-tête.

So, to my readers, I say the two of us had a lovely time there and decided we would go back again for a good enough drink and delightful surroundings. But, to Mr Lauren I say: You're an American, with an "American" establishment in Paris. Polish up those cocktail skills and own it, Ralph!

Quickie: Hotel de l'Abbaye

Quickie: Hotel de l'Abbaye
10 rue Casette
Paris 75006
Tel: 01 45 44 38 11

It's the season for year end drinks & festive apertifs. The girls and I decided that warranted an elegant cocktail apero so we decided to try the bar at L'Hotel de l'Abbaye.

I'll tell you right now, I don't know if they do a good mixed drink or not. When I asked the server if they could do a dry martini, he informed me that they were only doing wine & champagne because the bartender was not in for the evening. While I do believe that nice hotels should be equipped to deliver every night of the week, I also appreciated this after our first visit to the Hotel Particulier where they didn't tell us beforehand that the bar tender was not in residence that night.

So, I'm going to give them a little shout out anyway. The daintily delectable lounge at this little hotel would work well for a beverage stop in winter or summer months. This weekend they had a blazing homey fire. When the sun comes out, I plan on taking a seat in their secluded and lush garden terrace. The night we stopped in, it was almost disturbingly quiet, but got busier towards 10pm.

In lieu of a cocktail I had a glass of Laurent Perrier at 12 Euros (which, let's face it, is more festive than a martini anyway). The deco may be a bit too pretty for the boys, but for a quiet ladies' libation, I think it's a charming little find. The bar menu features small simple dishes of smoked salmon, croque monsieurs and salads at around 12 Euros. At those prices, this is a sweet spot to have a girlie gossip on the back terrace over a glass of bubbly and a light lunch.

I'll head back to check out the terrace in warmer months and may give the cocktails a try (although my hunch is it's better for the aforementioned activities)

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: Hotel Bel Ami

Hôtel Bel-Ami
7-11 rue St-Benoît
75006 Paris
Tél. +33 (0)1 42 61 53 53

It's not all about drinking at 52 Martinis, sometimes we learn stuff, too! Well known French writer Guy de Mauppassant's second novel was Bel Ami. Maupassant lived most of his life in Normandy where you'll find calvados and cider galore. So, in a nod to this fine writer, the Hotel Bel Ami Bar offers guests a choice a various calvados and cider based cocktails.

The bright and cheery bar is on the main floor of this snazzy 4 star hotel. Soundless black and white films are projected on the walls of the large and modern space. The tables, chairs and comfortable banquettes are spaced in a way to create somewhat intimate groupings, however, even that couldn't save it from the fact that I found it way too bright, which is a sure ambiance killer in my book. Instead of feeling like a relaxed and laid back escape, it felt more like an upscale, nicely decorated waiting room - maybe what it would be like in the waiting room of your plastic surgeon.

While the very nice barman chilled my martini glass with ice, he stirred some Martini Dry into the pitcher with ice. He dumped the Martini and then added the Beaffeater to the pitcher, stirred up my drink, poured and topped it off with a lemon twist. I can't fault much there, other than that I, personally, would have liked more vermouth. I was joined by Matt & Violaine, and new-comer to the Wednesday Cocktail Adventures, Ritu. While the girls enjoyed a nice glass of Beaune, Matt and I went for a calvados cocktail. His Colporteur (orange, banana, grenadine & calvados) was interesting, but I enjoyed my Aux Champs a bit more for it's simplicity of cherry liquor and calvados. While both were well made, neither knocked my socks off.
The staff were all friendly and accommodating and refilled our bar munchie bowls with spicy Japanese crackers and cashews.

Overall, this was a pleasant place with decent drinks even if their specialties didn't blow me away. However, cocktail prices (14 - 15 Euros) were a lot more reasonable than many other 4 star hotel bars. If they'd just turn the lights down a notch, I'd might be more likely to give them another try.

Special Edition: Le Lup

Le Lup
2-4, Rue du Sabot
75006 Paris
Tel : 01 45 48 86 47

The third time’s not entirely a charm.

I’ve tried –unsuccessfully - passing by Le Lup on two different occasions. The first time they were closed for a private party. The second time they had changed their opening days to Thur – Sat.

Recently, BFF Nicky and I were out for dinner close to this elusive bar on a Friday night during their opening hours. We stopped in for a drink – only to be told that they were closed for a private party! When I grumbled that I had now tried three times, the woman at the door was very apologetic and promised that if we came back in a half hour that she would offer us a round.

We came back a half hour later and the place was jam-packed with the private party still in full swing. Our drink-offering lady nowhere to be found, we went to the bar and ordered. The barman seemed confused when we ordered something specific assuming everyone was just guzzling the free wine and champagne with the party.

The atmosphere in this two floor restaurant/lounge/bar is super-chi chi- trendy St Germain. The upper floor with the restaurant encircling the staircase seemed laid back and appealing. The lower floor with the bar – and the stage - was a madhouse.

My martini was fine and rang in at around 14 Euros. Ultimately, I don’t think I’ll be going back here for cocktails as it’s just too risky. It doesn’t seem to be a place where you’re guaranteed a pleasant spot to sip your choice of tipple, but more of an event avenue. If you want to hear some funky live music or throw a big private party, this might be a consideration.

Wednesday Cocktail Adventure: L'Hotel

L’Hôtel
13 rue des Beaux Arts
Paris 75006
+33 (0) 1 43 25 64 81

Oscar Wilde’s famous last words, “Either that wallpaper goes or I do” were uttered three floors above the bar in L’Hotel where you can now order a L’Oscar Wilde. Back then it was called Hotel l’Alsace and he stayed there for some time without paying his bill before (bad pun warning) checking out. The current “Oscar Wilde” room is on the first floor and decorated with various Wilde memorabilia.

L’Hotel is a short walk from Saint Germain des Prés and well worth a visit. Nice hotels are nice and serve up nice drinks and nice food. There are lots of nice hotels in Paris. But, I was especially taken by L’Hotel. I’m trying to come up with a name for the décor. So far, I can only say “nouveau old”. It’s one of those places with well upholstered chairs in comfy arrangements, fireplaces, and bookshelves lining the walls. It looks old, but it’s probably not. Sometimes this look works and sometimes it doesn’t. It did for me at L’Hotel. I would have taken more photos, but tonight there was a camera crew filming an historian for a television show, so I couldn’t really wander about snapping away.

I ordered a “Dry Martini” off the menu. The bartender asked me if I wanted vodka or gin (even though the Dry Martini is listed on their menu as “gin and vermouth”.) House gin is Tanqueray. They also had Bulldog, Hayman’s Old Tom gin, G’Vine and Hendrick’s

My nice bar-guy chilled the glass while pouring my gin. He offered me a choice of Martini or N.P. for vermouth (took Nouilly Pratt). He threw in a few drops of Angostura at my request, stirred it up and topped it off with a lemon twist. A small dish of spicy Japanese crunchies came with my drink.

He did a nice job with the martini, but the crunchies were a bad bar snack with the filming. I only ate the small quiet ones since I didn’t want the big ones to interfere with the recording. I sat there – sucking quietly on my nibbles – and took a closer look at the bar. Apparently, cute famous boys drink here. On the wall behind the bar are photos of other celebrity patrons: Johnny Depp, Keanu Reeves, Sean Penn. (At least I think it was Sean Penn - without my glasses and with the glare, I’m not quite sure)

For my second drink I took – how could I not? – the L’Oscar Wilde. I got a glass of Jameson, red vermouth and Angostura bitters. It was garnished with some seriously alcohol-infused cherries and an orange slice. After eating the hot snacks and the killer cherries, my palate was pretty much shot, so it was hard to judge the Oscar Wilde.

After drinks at La Gare last time, which are around the same price as-off-the menu drinks here, I was thoroughly pleased with L ‘Hotel. Non-alcoholic drinks are around 4 – 5 Euros. A martini off the menu is 13 – 14 Euros. (Mine was a few bucks more with the upgrade on vermouth and gin). I’d like to go back and check out the restaurant whose chef worked at the 3 Michelin star Ledoyan previously. The cocktails were solid for Paris, the prices reasonable for a hotel bar, and the atmosphere was cozy and warm. Even though I can’t rate this as one of the best cocktail bars I’ve ever visited, it’s one of my favorites in Paris for now.