Gentlemen's Club Cocktail Adventures: Jefrey's

Jefrey's
14, Rue St Sauveur
75002 Paris

Even though Jefrey’s was freshly opened when I stopped in, I’ve been sitting on the post for awhile because I wasn’t immediately inspired. Since I've written about it for other sites it’s time to get inspired to give the full rundown with the nit-picking reign that only having my own blog allows.

Boldly placed just steps away from the well-established Experimental Cocktail Club, Jefrey’s touts itself as a speakeasy type gentlemen’s club. The interior looks promising: dim and sexy, small and intimate with deep purple velour sofas, comfortable arm chairs and elegant touches like the vintage seltzer bottles and cut-glass decanters. However, it does seem to be a gentlemen’s club that wants no fatties at the bar as the bar chairs are the tightest I’ve ever squeezed my bum into. An inch more ass and I would have needed the assistance of the pretty hostess plus a barman or two to pry my butt out of it.

At the time of my visit the menu featured a selection of cocktails in the mid-teens price range, including standards like the obligatory cosmo and house creations that feature a lot of fresh fruit and flavored syrups. Some are divided into ‘for him’ and those ‘for her.’ My martini was competently made, yet slightly warm, and came with simple savory cracker bites. I followed up with a margarita, which if memory serves, was nice enough. The spirits selection is somewhat small but with a few nice choices. While I take issue with the vodka heavy selection, I have no real gripe with the way the drinks are made.

My main issue is that the whole operation feels a bit superficial. My understanding is that the owner(s) is a finance guy from London who wanted to open a ‘speakeasy’ in Paris. An external agency was brought in to temporarily staff the bar and get things running. And, I think that shows through. They’re doing business as usual with nice enough drinks that will appeal to a wider audience who are looking for ‘classy’ cocktails rather than more challenging fare. They’re not going any deeper than making accessible drinks cleverly disguised as something more innovative.

This is the type of bar where you can buy your booze by the bottle. One thing I really like is the gorgeous display case where customers can store their purchased bottles. These little touches dress the place up and it will definitely appeal to a large portion of the drinking population in Paris looking for a sexy stop to sip. If you’re not a highly demanding quaffer, you’ll enjoy a visit. But, I personally find it a little soulless.

Gin Bar Cocktail Adventures: Le Parc Trocadero Hotel

Renai

ssance

Paris

Le Parc

Trocad

ero Hotel

Gin Bar

55-57

Avenue

Raymond

Poincare

75016 France

When I began my martini-fueled adventures there was no serious cocktail culture to speak of in Paris. Having long given up hope of finding a decent mixed drink, I subsisted on French wine when out and mixing my own when at home. My first recorded foray into serious spirits imbibing began – fittingly - with the Experimental Cocktail Club. Having recently opened at the time, these boys were at the forefront of the capital’s cocktail culture revival. Several years later, both 52 martinis and the Paris cocktail scene have evolved (for the better in both cases, I hope!)

Now, there are more worthy cocktail bars than I can visit on a regular basis. And I’m seeing additions that wouldn’t have been considered four years ago such as bars not only stocking but also showcasing spirits like gin. The Renaissance Paris Le Parc Trocadero Hotel has recently undergone a remodel and unveiled the first and only self-proclaimed gin bar in Paris. Of course I had to check it out.

The hotel reopened its doors last April after 4 months of renovation that resulted in the award of a fifth star. On entering the lobby bar, one does feel as if it’s just been revamped. It’s clean, modern and non-fussy but still manages to flirt with a bit of fun. Cheeky green armchairs and shiny surfaces offset more traditional paintings and low-key sofas. As with many hotel bars, lighting is bright. But, those looking for something more relaxed or romantic can move to the lovely leafy courtyard terrace year-round with its heat lamps and charming ambience.

I don’t know if it’s intentional, but the featured gin, G’Vine, reflects the décor with its green and grey tinged bottles of G’Vine Floraison and Nouassin. Oversized bottles of both sit center stage on the back bar and empties decorate various corners. A closer look at the other bottles at the bar indicates a definite bent towards the juniper with 20+ brands on offer. They’ve got the usual suspects (Gordon’s, Tanqueray, Bombay), the latest darlings (Monkey 47, Gin Mare) as well as one I don’t know (Topfergeist Peket.) Is that a gin or genever? The bottle looks like genever, but when I look it up it says gin. I’ll look into that more later. Anyway…

Prices range from 14 to 16 Euros. The standard cocktail menu features four classics based on a range of spirits and a suggested alternative for each. The classic dry martini has a recommended variation of the cucumber gin martini (Hendrick’s, cucumber juice and lemon juice.) I think this is a fun idea but I only got it from paying close attention to the cocktail list. I wonder if the regular costumer would even notice and might need more of a “If you like this, try this…” approach on the menu.

Next up are the ‘signature drinks’ which all feature French gins (either G’Vine, Citadelle or Magellan.) Teacher’s pet seems to be the Flower Power @ le Parc (jasmine infused G’Vine Flourison, Saint Germain, rose syrup and lemon.) Once again, I don’t know if this is intentional but the name is very similar to the already established Flower Power cocktail from Simon Difford (also gin and St Germain based).

In short, it’s a good start for a gin bar. However if I were really angling to corner the mothers’ ruin market, I’d put more gin-based drinks on the menu. But, the staff tells me there are plans to expand both the menu and the gin selection. It should be noted that bar manager, Axel Ginepro, was not in-house when I made my visit and I think that fact made some of the teething pains more evident.

For example, I ordered the Dry Martini (listed on the menu) and initially got a margarita (which was immediately changed when I pointed this out). Also, the dry martini on the menu is listed with “French gin” but no specification of brand. When asked which brand I wanted, I assumed it was made with the featured gin and requested G’Vine. I was then told there would be a supplement for this French gin in my martini. Considering my micro-management of the mixed drink, the bartender was exceedingly friendly. While most likely annoyed by my multiple questions, she never once showed it and gave me the G’Vine martini at the standard price. I was apologetic for being so persnickety and I meant it. I imagine most guests order drinks, take what they’re given and appreciate the attentive service

over dishes of truffled cashews. But from an admittedly attentive customer’s perspective: if you’re going to call yourself a gin bar, step up!

Notwithstanding, I do think this an interesting and exciting project. But in order to capitalize on that, more staff training and expansion are in order. Otherwise, it’s just a nice hotel bar with excellent service that just happens to have a lot of gin on hand. I get it. We all have to start somewhere. And, just as hopefully both this blog and the Paris cocktail scene have grown into something more substantial with time, so will le Parc’s gin bar.

Opera Cocktail Adventures: Martini Bar at Garnier

Opera Garnier Martini Bar

Place Jacques Rouche

75009 Paris

With its impressive exterior, grand staircase and Chagall-ceilinged auditorium, Opera Garnier has always had plenty to offer beyond just the performances. And, now the previously underutilized backside of one of Paris' most beautiful buildings also boasts a Martini bar and immense restaurant.

The Martini sponsored bar features three types of Martini vermouth and cocktails, which draw heavily on them. Many options also include prosecco like the Royal Opera (Martini Bianco, prosecco, peach and grapefruit juice).

Although the spirits selection is small, my martini was made with Bombay Original (not Sapphire, which is a surprising choice to find in Paris bars) and a twist. It was well made - as it should have been at 14 E.

Matt, Vio, Thibault and Opal joined and we tried a few other drinks with the caipi being the best of the bunch. Somewhat stale popcorn came on the side, which was a bit damp due to the dishes it was served in - still wet from washing.

Being an historical monument, this addition had to be done in such a way that no permanent structural changes were made to the environment. So the multilevel restaurant is built up on a groovy 60’s inspired structure that

rests on the ground. As a result the martini bar itself has a bit of a cold and temporal feeling.The entire operation seems as if it's cheekily squatting in a much more inspired setting. The temporary and incongruous bar and restau feel rickety and soulless. While the drinks were nice and the barman attentive, I wouldn’t make a trip back to imbibe. But, what might be more interesting is the large terrace off the back in summer months when weather warms and opera patrons are looking for a pleasing place for a post-show drink.

Big Buddha Cocktail Adventures: Buddha Bar

Buddha Bar

8/12 rue Boissy d'Anglas

75008 Paris

Tel: 33 1 53 05 90 00

It's time to address the big Buddha in the room. For a good part of the past decade the Buddha bar has barely bleeped my radar. I considered it a past its sell-by date hub for expense account-wielding wanna-be hipsters more interested in where they are drinking than what (with a bit of electro mood music in the background.) However, over the past couple of years, I began to suspect that just maybe the Buddha was going to have a renewal of cocktail cred. Cocktail acquaintances were mentioning the Buddha Bar, they showed up at the Bar Rouge at this year's Cocktails Spirit and I heard talk of talent behind the bar. I thought, maybe I should give this place another look.

So I dragged one of my besties, Wendy, along to try it. She's a girl with whom I've clinked many a glass and who deserves some cocktail cred of her own, having recently written the Seattle Cocktail Culture iPhone application and heading up the Seattle LUPEC chapter. She was with us ten years ago - probably the last time I had gone to the Buddha - when we were denied entry because someone in our party was in trainers. So, she seemed a good - albeit not totally convinced - person to go with.

Buddha belongs to the George V Eatertainment Group, along with other hyper-designed Paris venues like Barlotti, Barrio Latino and Bound. All of their ventures are bold, conceptual spaces that can only be kitted out like that with loads of cash. And, for me, that pays off with the Buddha. I am admittedly smitten with the decor, which many might consider a bit out-of-date in a been-there-done-that kind of way. My attraction has to do with the (hyperbolically) world's largest Buddha that literally fills the room. That Buddha is fantastically huge. I am both fascinated and frightened by the big Buddha.

We arrived on a Monday in August, an ordinarily quiet month for Paris, but the bar was bursting. Notwithstanding the heaving crowds, the cute, qipao-attired waitress seated and served us very quickly. My Martini was fine, but Wendy found her Last Word too tart. Nice job that the waitress came through the throngs to ask me if I wanted an olive or twist before placing the final order with the bar. The place was so busy I couldn't see the bar, bartenders or booze, and had nothing to observe but the menu. Amongst copious sake choices, the menu offers a couple of pages of 17+ E cocktails and my observations on each section are such:

Tiki: You don't see a lot of Paris bars doing a range of tiki, including some of the more convivial options like the group-intended (200 Euros!) 3 litre Tresor Secret du Temple.

Classics: I'm kind of perplexed by their choice of these four: Icebreaker (?), Pineapple Julep, Last Word, Pisco Sour.

Modern Classics: a mix of some sure-fire Stoli-based sellers, alongside a few more interesting and unusual choices, involving eucalyptus-infused shochu. There could be something interesting here.

World BB creations: various drinks, including one "by Marie Claire" which I don't really understand the reasoning behind.

Voyage in Asia: all involving either shochu, some form of sake or Japanese whisky. Makes sense given the venue.

Goody! three creations from cocktail and spirits notables, which could be considered more challenging than usual for Paris palettes with spicy chili infusions or bitter campari.

Shooters: Three choices. The standard tequila and vodka shots, as well as one diluted with a cordial. Meh.

So, in general it's a menu with both a few redeemable cocktails qualities as well as obvious profitable choices. I can't really knock a business for trying to make cash - you gotta bankroll those ginormous Buddhas somehow. Plus perhaps we would have stayed to explore the more interesting potentials, but it was so incredibly hot that I could hardly finish my first drink. And at those prices, with those massive crowds, I'd say a bit of aircon is in order.

So Buddha Bar: has-been or come-back? Anybody's guess. It will remain in limbo-land for me until I get back in to explore the bar action more seriously. And, given the crowds, I'm not sure that's going to happen anytime soon. So, got an opinion on the Buddha? Feel free to share. I've been getting mails from Buddha-curious readers who want to know.

Salacious-glam Cocktail Adventures: le 29

le 29

29 rue Vineuse

Paris 75016

06 18 40 89 93

I've said it before, but I have a fascination with the seedier side of Paris. I live near Pigalle, so I get daily doses of kinky sex shops, working ladies in action and the famous museum of erotica. So when i heard that Greg (formerly of Costes, le Secret and Royal Monceau) was opening a spot in a former girlie-type club in the relatively quiet neighborhood near Trocadero, I was clearly intrigued.

Still sporting the sign of the prior establishment, le 29 is somewhat sketchy (in a good way) and unassuming from the outside. With no windows, red lights to signal they're open and an imposing heavy closed door, you've little idea what you're in for when you buzz for entry. But when I slipped into this modern day den of sin, I was completely enamoured by the decor. I'd heard that they'd done little in terms of remodel when taking the place over and fortunately

that's true. Instead of having eradicated all traces of its prior existence, they play it up. It retains a slightly naughty and underground feel with its red walls and cushy red armchairs and lounges and the remaining shiny dance poles (check it out - you can see one in the pic). Yet elegant touches like the silver bar accessories, cocktails picks and gorgeous mixing glasses elevate it to something more luxurious and classy. I'd call it glamorous salacious boudoir chic at its best.

I stopped in early evening around 19:30 when mellow jazz and soul music played and I was joined by one of my usual cohorts, Matt, as well as Susie and visiting Seattle LUPEC ladies Courtney and Tracy. Similar to a few other spots like le Carmen and un Dimanche a Paris, le 29 doesn't have a printed cocktail menu. Options vary depending on what's fresh and what kind of new syrups are lined up behind the bar. So, Greg chatted with us to get an idea of what we might want to get in our gullets. I started with my usual and had a very nice No. 3/Noilly Prat martini, stirred with olives. Matt started with a side car variation that included lemon grass and the girls had some well-made Manhattans.

Thus began a couple of hours of tasting and sampling and general conviviality. My next drink was a margarita with thyme and salt infused syrup. I lost track of what everyone else was sampling and sipping for each one. But I do recall an Armagnac, red vermouth and bitters combo as well as another with gin, Thai basil, green chartreuse, absinthe and syrup. The booze selection, while not huge, is very respectable. Gins available were Tanqueray, Monkey 47, Junipero, Gordons, No. 3 and Hendrick's.

I've also said before, I think it can be intimidating for customers faced with no cocktail menu to order without knowing the prices. In this case, they run about 14 Euros a cocktail (similar to any other bar in Paris going sans carte) which are prices I'd be happy to pay here.

I love seeing a worthwhile bar arrive in this area, which previously had nothing cocktail-worthy to boast. Other things of note: For night owls, this is a spot that stays open until 4am (sometimes as late as 6am). It looks like they'll hopefully be bringing in some finger foods come October or so. Smokers will appreciate the discrete and comfortable fumoir in the back with more cushy red armchairs and elegant lamps. Also, for the moment they don't have a card machine, so take cash. Lots of it, because you can easily get sucked into the underbelly elegance of the place and not want to give up your bar stool for awhile.

Drugstore Cocktail Adventures: Drugstore Publicis

Drugstore Publicis

133 avenue des Champs-Elysées

75008 Paris

This ain't your granny's drugstore. The shiny Drugstore Publicis sits in the shadow of the Arc de Triomphe and serves as a one-stop upscale shop for books, food (both sit down and to go), drinks, cigarettes, movies, magazines and more. I’ve passed this place countless times and never been moved to try any of its offerings, assuming – given the locale - it would be overpriced and pretentious. Recently, Kim and I found ourselves stumped for a nightcap spot in the area and stopped onto their airy terrace expecting nothing more than a mediocre drink and a bit of girlie gossip.

Once we looked at the menu, we realized that this might be an unexpected hidden cocktail gem. First off, they have a long list of martinis on offer – including a classic dry. Cocktails, at 14 Euros each, fall under several categories: shorts, longs, champagne based, and after or before dinners. Alongside the typical bloody mary’s and ti punch, some in particular that caught my eye as more unusual for Paris were the negroni, Pimm’s cups, mint juleps and a pink gin, which I don’t think I’ve ever seen on a Paris cocktail menu. Finally, their list of 15 different gins (including a genever and without a Gordon’s in sight) sealed the deal and we decamped from the terrace and headed in for a front row seat at the bar.

While the outdoor area is nice, in a rather nondescript way, the inside is brightly lit, clean and modern with its sleek white counter tops, neon light touches and flashing screens. Surprisingly it feels slightly dated even though it was remodeled not long ago. But I’m cool to ironically do the 80’s deal if it comes with a good drink. And, it did.

My Bombay Sapphire (although not my preferred it is the house gin) martini was stirred and served in a chilled glass with an olive. More attention to cocktail detail followed. Kim’s French martini came with freshly crushed pineapple, all glasses were chilled and double straining was happening. As we watched them make others’ drinks it was clear that a lot of consideration was going into each one. Although one thing I'm unsure on is that he uses a milkshake blender instead of shaking. I think this might work well for certain cocktails to really whip them up to a froth, but for others, I'm not sure it's appropriate.

We were both taken by the approachable barman who chatted with us without being overly intrusive. In between building drinks, he refilled our water glasses and offered up bowls of salty crisps.

The clientele is a mixed bag of tourists taking in a rowdy meal, awkward dates sharing fishbowl-sized Movenpick ice cream dishes and even more awkward business associates (?) who stare blankly into the center of the room neither speaking to each other nor appearing to enjoy themselves as their large servings of ice-cream melt away. But, to offset the somewhat odd vibe, they had yet more surprises in store for us. They are open 365 days a year. So, if you need a cocktail on Christmas day, this is your stop. And, unlike so many bars in this area, they have a happy hour. From 6 to 8, cocktails are a reasonable 9 Euros. Glasses of wine range from 6 to 13 Euros, which is also a decent pricetag for the Champs.

However, I’d personally save the wine sipping for the terrace since the place isn’t busting with dimly lit vino-inspiring ambience. But mostly, I’d either hit this place for a nooner cocktail or keep it up my sleeve as an unexpectedly good spot for a happy hour cocktail after a day of shopping (or more realistically, in this area, window-shopping). So, I was wrong. It’s not just about watery, overpriced Champs-Elysees tourist trap cocktails here. They’re actually putting some TLC into their drinks and at a pocket-friendly price. And, I’m okay with being wrong.... because it’s a lot easier to eat crow when you can wash it down with a decent drink.

Spodie Cocktail Adventures: Speakeasy

Speakeasy
25 Rue Jean Giraudoux
75016 Paris, France
01 47 23 47 22

Articles abound on the 'speakeasy' bar trend; some proclaimings it's in, others proclaiming it's over. I think it's over. That's not to say I don't highly enjoy many of the places touted as modern day speakeasies. But, a little variety is good and I don't think a bar need necessarily employ faux-prohibition tactics to prove their cocktail cred. However, a bar with the name 'Speakeasy' is going to catch my attention.

With red velour stools, dark leather sofas, nightly jazz and a discreet fumoir, the Speakeasy attempts to transport clients back in time to the smoky, jazz-filled Chicagoan dens of iniquity of the twenties. The menu features over 20 cocktails, including the usuals like margaritas and mojitos and more unique house creations at 14 Euros each. Nothing looked exceptional and some were hovering suspiciously close to spodie territory such as the Gin Imperial (Bombay, Malibu, grenadine, pineapple juice, mandarin imperial, raspberry juice and tonic water.) Although what was exceptional for this generally expensive area was a happy hour (17h30 - 19h30, all cocktails 8 Euros)

I was very early and set off solo for my first drink. Cheerful besuited staff set out dishes of chips and jarred salsa. I don't like jarred salsa. It simply does't taste good. I ate some anyway and washed it down with the glass of ice water the barman had thoughtfully put in front of me. I've been living here long enough to know better. It wasn't water. This was my martini: sweet vermouth over ice with a big lemon chunk in it. I think he may have dropped in a few drops of gin because I had asked for a 'dry gin martini.' It's is a shame because there are more than a few gins I would happily put in my mouth from those listed on their menu (Gordon's, Tanqueray, Beefeater, Tanqueray 10, Bombay Sapphire, Pink 47 and Hendricks.) However there is one gin they list which has me a baffled. I have never heard of (and find no information on) "Cavendish" which they also have listed on the menu as a gin. [note: Paul-Eric of Sipeasy just notified me that this is the private label gin of France Boisson]

Mel and Vio arrived and took two drinks whose names and don't recall and which left them nonplussed. Unable to find anything imbibe-inspiring on the menu I went the when-in-Rome route with the amicably votre, a crazy concoction of whisky, light rum, Malibu, pineapple juice, blue curacao & strawberry juice. I was hoping to be pleasantly surprised. I wasn't. And the color. Anyone ever see the modern day freak show that is the Jim rose circus? The color recalls Matt "The Tube" Crowley's act. I'll leave you to look the description of that one up at your leisure in case you're having lunch right now.

A fellow blogger Cat - who hits some nice bars - reported a very good experience there. And with the friendly staff, good tunes and relaxed atmoshphere, I have no doubt that one could pass an enjoyable evening here with the right drink orders. (wine? Whisky?) So perhaps it's hit and miss here.

And, I imagine speakeasies during prohibition had that same range in quality. In some cases, the liquor restrictions forced a flourish of creativity as bartenders invented new recipes with limited resources. But those with less cash or connections were unlikely to be celebrating this new bout of cocktail creativity and probably ended up in sketchy speakeasies with even sketchier spirits. At this Speakeasy: Cat had a good experience and I had a bad one. At Prohibition era speakeasies: Sometimes you get a legendary Last Word cocktail. But then sometimes you get bathtub gin related deaths. So perhaps this place - with its bads as well as goods - is actually more representative of real speakeasies than I initially thought.

Rooftop Cocktail Adventures: le 7th

le 7th, Terrass Hotel

12-14 rue Joseph-de-Maistre
75018 Paris
Tél. : +33 1.46.06.72.85

I think it's important to (at least try to) be aware of our faults and to correct them. One of my current personal fault projects: I'm a little bit of a grudge holder. So, when the restaurant atop the Terrass Hotel started fluctuating too much in service and quality for the price, I stopped indulging in their rooftop dining and mentally crossed them off my list of possible eats. That doesn't mean I wasn't longing for a bit of terrace time with them, but I was loath to pay full whack for a meal or talk my way into one of the very few spots for a drink to get it. And, then like an ex strolling back into my life with promise of change, they came up with their latest summer scheme.

No longer are reservations or long meal commitments necessary to enjoy the expansive view. The Terrass Hotel was now teasing me back with its latest rooftop transformation: le 7th. All summer, the rooftop terrace serves exclusively as a no reservations cocktail bar and lounge with the option of finger foods, burgers, salads and pasta should you feel peckish. Maybe we could get back together after all? I met up there with Wednesday regulars Matt, Vio and Mel as well as visiting style-meister cocktillians (and more) Howie and Tawny, to find out.

Once I made it past the multiple lobby staff and onto the roof, I immediately remembered what brought us together in the first place. The view is special. The faux-grass green matting gives the impression of stepping onto a healthy (but well manicured) lawn and the space is open, airy and relaxed. And, clearly this place has caught more than just my eye. The night of our reunion was a busy one with an abundance of the suit and earpiece crowd.

The drinks menu features 17 classics such as martini, manhattan and negroni and 9 house creations including three mojito riffs, all at 14 Euros each. My usual first order was a disappointment of proportions. While, I like a bit of vermouth in my martini, this was too much. Of the three gins on offer (Bombay, Gordon's and Tanqueray) my guess is they're using Gordon's for the martinis. Opinions varied on the other drinks. In the surprisingly good category were the gin fizz, manhattan and strawberry basil mojito. The caipi was another overly sweet disappointment and the planter's punch tasted of spiked juicebox.

Like many places, pretty garnishes can initially distract from the actual quality of the drink. The attention to visual details and fluctuation in cocktail quality says to me that there are some good intentions behind the bar, but maybe a lack of range and/or knowledge when it comes to serious cocktail skills. Warm weather clients looking for a bit of summer fun without high end cocktail expectations, will enjoy perching above Paris with something cold in hand. But, I would personally love to see a bit more consistency and attention to some of the mixers.

A flute of Lanson Black Label champagne goes for 15 (white) or 16 (Rose), and wines by the glass at 5 to 7 Euros seem a steal when you take into account the view. But, if you want to stick with the cocktails, I'd recommend either a Basil Strawberry Mojito when warm summer evenings call for something with plenty of refreshing crushed ice or a Manhattan once the temp drops with the setting sun.

Opinions on service fluctuated as well. I found the servers helpful in getting us all situated around the table with everyone arriving at different times and attentive about taking orders. However, there were a couple of glitches with Matt's final beer order and everyone found the pseudo-seriousness of the downstairs staff a bit daunting. Fluctuations aside, we had - as usual - a great time together testing and tasting. And, while I snapped the usual pics, Howie captured the moments on paper.

So, Hotel Terrace, I'm no longer holding a grudge. You seem to be making an effort to change. And, while I don't know what our future together holds, I could maybe be down with a summer fling.

Chocolate Cocktail Adventures: Un Dimanche a Paris

Un Dimanche a Paris
4-6-8 Cour du Commerce Saint André
75006 Paris
Tél: 01 56 81 18 18

Admittedly, I have my vices. However, sweets aren't one of them. I'm by no means a chocoholic and can easily pass up the dessert cart for any cheese plate. So while I wouldn't trek across town to check out a chocolatière, this Pierre Cluizel spot piqued my interest. First, blogger buzz brought it to my attention. Then I got an email from the friendly Claire over at Cognac Ferrand suggesting I try their cocktails. And, finally I read this post which mentioned (among other pertinent things, of course) the size of the barman's waist. Wouldn't you be curious?

I was. So, I set off to un Dimanche a Paris for an early evening drink (the lounge opens at 4pm) to assess both the barman and his skills with Heather and David as my cohorts. The first floor of this slick, bright chocolate concept store houses the shop, restaurant and tearoom. Upstairs is the laid back lounge with its blond wood floors and comfortable jewel tone sofas and chairs which invite lingering. The highlight in the center is a portion of the over 800 year old Philippe August tower showcased behind plexiglass.

The second highlight was the charmingly good-looking barman, Mikael who greeted us and gave the rundown. All of their cocktails include chocolate and are served slightly warmer than usual to allow appreciation of its flavor in the drink. Instead of offering a set menu, Mikael determines customers' likes and dislikes to create custom cocktails based on their tastes. And, he's more than just an pleasantly animate cocktail menu - he's also got some big names on his C.V. having previously worked abroad for both Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon.

My first cocktail was a martini-themed mixture of Potocki vodka, Combier eau de vie de cacao, chocolate and orange bitters and a housemade mixture of cocoa and Sichuan pepper. I don't do chocolate martinis, but this was a step above the overly sweet choc-tails normally served and the peppery addition was a nice touch. Round two was a combo of tequila, grapefruit, Campari, orange and chocolate bitters. Unfortunately, I didn't take notes on the cocktails he made for the others, but if I remember correctly, there was fruit involved. There are some interesting additions to the small bar stock that you won't find in many bars, like the Monkey 47.

You definitely won't get a standard martini or Manhattan here. What makes this bar stand out is the one-on-one interaction. Mikael is clearly enthusiastic about his work and takes pride in creating something unique for the clientele. In response to a few questions about Combier, he brought it out with a bottle of Cointreau alongside for us to taste the difference. David even scored a little bottle of Cointreau Cuisine to take home for a bit of cooking fun. We also got to sample a few of the sweets. Fortunately, the bar is quiet enough to allow for this kind of more personal dialogue with the customer. Although, as I've mentioned before, I do think that bars with no menus should have some indication of pricing, so customers have an idea of what they're in for. In this case, you're in for about 15 Euros a cocktail.

So, while I'm more of a cheese than chocolate girl, this is an interesting deviation from the standard cocktail fare for sophisticated sippers with a sweet tooth.

*update: Mikael is no longer working the bar here and is currently over at Flute

Dramatic Cocktail Adventures: Le Carmen

Le Carmen
22 rue de Douai
75009 Paris

I like classics: cocktails, cuisine, clothes, cars… But, I own up to being a bit of a novelty junkie as well. I don’t just want to know what’s “now”, I want to know what’s “next.” New venues are exciting, even more so if they’re nearly on my doorstep. So, I was clearly intrigued when le Carmen opened late last year in a discrete former hôtel particulier not far from the neon light of Pigalle.

At 8 sharp (opening hour), Matt, Vio, Amy, Shannon and I were ushered through the simple entrance by a serious doorman and delivered into elegantly theatrical surroundings. We passed the enormous bird cage and between two massive ionic columns, drawn to the glowing bar, center stage. Dramatic lighting, beautiful drapes, intimate arrangements of fashionable furniture and elegant accents such as the grand piano or heavy candelabras transport patrons to a milieu reminiscent of a film set. No surprise, considering the man behind the impressive transformation is Antoine Platteau, a famous French film set designer.

When we asked for the menu, the waitress told us there was none and offered to send over the “mixologue.” When a bartender is competent, menu-free drinking can be fun. And, this is an environment that could work a no-menu, more personalized service angle on certain levels. But, it’s also a setting that leaves customers wondering just how expensive cocktails might be. And, such a pretty place deters gauche questions of price, so patrons may hold back on “just one more” for fear of sticker shock. My solution would be to indicate price without providing detail - simply listing categories and prices and inviting customers to discuss cocktail options with the bartender. However, I fear that even such a solution will prove too difficult for a venue that looks set to start pulling in substantial crowds leaving insufficient time for one-on-one cocktail collaboration. So perhaps it’s better that I’ve been told they do plan on printing menus soon.

Resident barman, Benjamin (formerly of Paris ice bar, Kube), mixed up our first round, including a very nice martini with Haymans. We were impressed enough by round one, to give him free reign on the next. Round two was a success, with a couple notables. Vio’s drink which included spiced rum, sugar and pink grapefruit juice and was right up her ally. I appreciated the use of Bols genever in mine, which showed an awareness of my taste preferences but a willingness to stray from the obvious spirit choice of gin.

Benjamin is pleasant and enthusiastic about his work and cocktails. In the world of nightlife, superficial often trumps substance. So, I give le Carmen kudos for being more than just a pretty face. I’ll be curious to see what type of following it cultivates as it has the potential to pull in the beautiful crowd in need of a beautiful backdrop. Le Carmen falls into a space between cocktail bar and nightclub, with a coming lineup of music and dj’s and somewhat of a ‘late night’ feel. Closing hour is currently 2am, but that may be extended in the future. The music focus is fitting as this was also where the opera Carmen was written.

Upon paying we discovered the prices to be 12 to 15 Euros for cocktails, fair for the quality and location. Patrons preferring something a little less spendy can partake in the sophisticated swish with a glass of wine or beer at around 6 Euros. Without a menu, it’s harder to get an overall feel for their cocktail direction, so I’ll be stopping back in for further ‘research’ soon. Plus its classic but fresh feel simultaneous sates my cravings for both old and new.

(photos - except martini - are from le Carmen Facebook page by permission)

Soviet Cocktail Adventures: le Molotov

4 rue du Port Mahon
75002 Paris
Tel.: 01 73 70 98 46

Russian sounds irresistibly sexy to me. I've always been fascinated by the language and its unfamiliar alphabet. I took a Russian class once, but never got much further than learning the meaning of babushka. Contrary to its appealing sound, I discovered it's not necessarily a word I want whispered in my ear. Many years ago, we went to St Petersburg for our annual NYE trip and stopped into Zov Ilicha, a Soviet-themed bar/resto jam-packed with Lenin busts, quasi-porn, and wait staff in scanty communist era inspired uniforms. I'm American and I'm old enough to remember the whole 'Tear Down the Wall' business. But even though I recall it, I'm young enough that at the time I wasn't totally clued in and found it all vaguely frightening, appealing, exciting and confusing. So I begrudgingly own up to my fascination with CCCP kitsch at various points in my life. But, as a theme, it's a bit passé now, no?

This week, Kim, Heather and I decided to lift the fanciful iron curtain that separates the recently opened le Molotov from modern day Paris and find out. Beyond the barely marked entrance and blacked-out windows, lies a small, dark and somewhat claustrophobic bar space decked out in typical retro-Ruskie decor. A steep, skinny, candlelit staircase in the corner leads to a small restaurant area where 'clandestine' law breakers are smoking in public spaces.

A Communist theme is reflected in menu procurement as well. I believe there is only one in the whole building and we had to wait for the restaurant to finish with it first. When it came, I realized why our upstairs comrades may have taken so long with it. Incredibly dim lighting combined with a handwritten (in cursive) menu in fine ballpoint pin on grid paper takes a while to see clearly. From what I could decipher, various vodka based drinks are on offer.

I tried - unsuccessfully - for a martini and ended up with a ginger, basil, vodka combo. Kim & Heather ordered white and black Russians. By then I had given up on any serious cocktail recon and I don't even ask what kind of vodka was in my mediocre mixture. Kim's white Russian, was basically undrinkable. I'm not a white Russian fan myself, but even so, I can tell on tasting one if it's decent or not. This tasted like powdered milk mixed with water and cheap coffee liqueur. (even though the bottle's on the shelf, I really don't think they're using Kahlua)

We decided to call it good after that round and asked for the bill. For drinks and service of this quality we were shocked to pay 15 Euros each.

It's no secret that I'm not averse to divey bars or sketchily run places and kind of get a certain kick out of them. But, I AM averse to paying cocktail prices way beyond what the experience merits. While the sneaky smoking area might pull in a certain clientele, the cocktails here will not. I can see it drawing a crowd of ironic hipster wanna-be's and patrons who are impressed enough by a change of pace from the common Parisian bar decor to be fooled into thinking it's something more than it is. But, for me, I'd rather have the Zov Ilicha in Russia. At least they had naughty pictures on the wall for entertainment!

(NOTE: I'm having camera issues, so recent post pics will be a bit off and on. The 1st picture used here of Molotov was on both Cityvox and Do it in Paris, so I'm not sure where to credit. And, the 2nd picture us at Zov Ilicha in St Petersburg)