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Thursday, December 8, 2011

Snow Globe Cocktail Adventures: Hilton Bubble Bar

Hilton Arc de Triomphe Bubble Bar
51 rue de Courcelles
75008 Paris

For some festive fun, the Hilton Arc de Triomphe has installed a Tattinger sponsored ephemeral champagne bar in their courtyard. From 1 December to 15 January guests can enjoy swank sipping inside a snow globe.

In this unseasonably warm winter, faux snow and Christmas trees add a welcome holiday feel. Within, it's a white, light, bright winter wonderland. Fake fur throws cover ample sofas and warming rugs are tucked beneath each table in case you need something extra cozy under which to snuggle.

For this type of operation, I appreciate the simplicity of the one and only drinking option: Champagne. There are three choices: Tattinger Brut Reserve (20 Euros), Tattinger Rose (21 Euros) or Tattinger Brut Millesime (28 Euros). For a few Euros extra, add on the "bulle fraicheur" (barsnack in a ball.) On my visit the bulle was a bread stick wrapped in a thin slice of duck breast on a generous mound of mascarpone dip.

The space holds a maximum of 35 guests at a time and has a no-reservations policy. Going at opening (18h00) means you'll enjoy the place in relative peace. Later it gets livelier with larger groups - and more fun with sound. The acoustics of the bubble are those of a whispering gallery: every conversation is amplified and sounds moves about the space in strange ways. Friendly doormen carefully monitor entries and exits via the two door system to make sure one door remains closed at all times. Apparently if both doors are open at once, the dome deflates!

So, if you need a holiday spirit hit, this is it.

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Thursday, September 1, 2011

Romantic Cocktail Adventures: Hotel Saint James

Hotel Saint James
43 avenue Bugeaud
75116 Paris
Tel: 01 44 05 81 81


Tucked discretely away in the quiet 16th, the insouciantly elegant Hotel Saint James radiates cheeky chic thanks to a makeover a la Bambi Sloan who manages to marry the traditional with the trendy in its bold and breathtaking decor. In addition to being a dreamy spot to lay your head for a night or two, this hotel and private club features two very different and drop dead gorge drinking spaces: the library and the terrace. This summer has been a bit hit and miss weather-wise in Paris, so when the blue skies broke through, I made a beeline for the fairytale-like terrace for a bit of al fresco imbibing.

While waiting for Matt, Vio, Mel and Thibault, I gave the drinks menu the once over. It begins with 15 mojito variations including a USA mojito made with bourbon. Otherwise, one can choose from somewhat pedestrian 'classics' like cosmos and sex on the beach or - possibly more appropriate in this setting - a dozen or so champagne cocktails. They also invite you to 'ask the barman for your classic cocktail of choice', which I did. Unfortunately, my martini was a wash. It was served warm, with sweet vermouth and over-enthusiastically boasting a twist, an olive and a straw.

The others were more successful in their orders of caipis or mojito variations which were iced up and refreshing and a good choice for some summer sipping if that type of drink is your thing. Based on their limited spirits selection and uninspired 'classics' offerings, they seem to sway towards the fruity summer drinks and focus on pleasing the mojito crowd, but fall a bit short when it comes to the classic cocktail capabilities.

Service was friendly enough, cocktail nibbles were replenished regularly and the surroundings are undoubtedly luxe. Yet, even so, at 18 - 25 Euros a drink, I'd love to see a tiny bit more attention paid to the classics and ingredients. That said, I am quite simply enamoured with this place. So much so that I briefly flirted with becoming a member. Apparently, benefits include preferential booking policies, exclusive access to club events and entry to a network of some 200+ private clubs worldwide...for a price. But, if you're not flush enough to enjoy the privileges of membership, non-members can still stop into both the bar or restaurant from 19h00 onwards in the evenings.

While it's unlikely I'll order another martini at the Saint James, I will surely return. In summer months, I'll partake in its delicately feminine side on the terrace with a girlfriend or two, a (surprisingly reasonably priced) bottle of wine and a cheese plate. When winter rolls around I'll indluge in its more masculine side and while away a chilly evening in the splendid library bar with something straight and strong (and I am still talking about the drinks.)


*Note: First and last pics are from the Saint James facebook page. Want to know more about the Hotel Saint James? Check out Not Just Another Milla's post on her wedding there.

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Monday, January 17, 2011

Quickie Brithday Cocktail Adventures: Grand Hotel

InterContinental Paris le Grand Hotel
2 rue Scribe
75009 Paris

Recall Ugo from the hand incident at le 47? Not only is he a nice bartender, but he's a fun guy to grab a drink with. So we met up at the preselection for the Trophée du Bar at the InterContinental Paris Le Grand Hotel. As it happened it was also my birthday, so while waiting for him, I decided to indulge in an anniversary-of-my-being-born martini.

Upon sitting down, I was ready to love up this somewhat spendy hotel bar. First impression: upscale, rich red in an under-the-radar-ish locale, a bar/lounge area that spans the entire first floor lobby and an "original dry martini" on the menu comprising Tanqueray, vermouth and a few dashes of orange bitters! A few interesting gins on the menu and a selection of classics (Sazerac, vieux carre, etc) and house creations.

Service was top-notch hotel-worthy and I ordered my dry martini. But apparently should have specified I wanted the "original" martini that was listed on the menu. I watched the bar-lady stir up a martini with Gordon's and then pour it into a Grey Goose glass. I payed 20 Euros for a sponsored cocktail glassful of low-grade gin. For 2 Euros more, I could presumably have had the better martini but wasn't given the option and didn't realize until after that in addition to the 'original dry martini' there is 'dry martini' on the menu, so I guess I should have specified.

Ugo arrived and we dropped down to the smaller bar downstairs to watch the participants mix up drinks. The crowd was fun & some interesting cocktails were being created. But I was still cranking a bit after paying 20 Euros for a martini made from a bottle of gin that in its entirety (at grocery full price) costs significantly less than the price of my drink at le Grand Hotel. The annoyance lasted only briefly, because - really - who wants to be cranky on their birthday!? But, I do like the space and will pop by again to try the original dry martini.

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Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Starck-y Cocktail Adventures: Royal Monceau

Royal Monceau
37 Avenue Hoche
75008 Paris
01 42 99 88 00


Wedding syndrome: Unrealistically high expectations unattainable in reality. Only One day. Only one chance. Everything. Must. Be. Perfect. I was recently in London for a wedding where the bride suffered none of that and as a result it was one of the most enjoyable and lovely weddings I've attended. However, I think I personally may have experienced a bit of wedding syndrome on one of my latest bar visits.

I'd been hearing über-buzz about the prestigious Royal Monceau bar since long before its Starckified recent reopening. With all the hype, perhaps I was expecting too much: cocktails made from joyful unicorn tears of gin that would transport me to faraway places on cotton candy clouds. But what I got instead was simply really well made cocktails.

The over-all hotel revamping has been met with both positive and negative criticism. For such an enormous redesign undertaking, Matt and I found the bar to be surprisingly understated. I dig the long, glowing counter and the pretty multi-colored glass displays. The space feels open and airy without sacrificing a warm and welcoming ambience.

Highly competent Greg, formerly of le Secret, manages the tight bar team and knocks out some damn fine drinks. I had a Beefeater 24 martini, which was excellent and Matt had a Sidecar, which in our opinion was the best Sidecar we've had anywhere, ever. Drinks were accompanied by bar snacks of classed up breadsticks and nuts or olives. (I can't remember which one)

Spirit selection is impressive and the prices - at around 20 Euros a drink - are entirely reasonable for a hotel of this caliber. However, I was slightly less impressed with our second round of drinks, which were house creations. Unfortunately, I am very behind on my blog posts, so I can't remember which ones we took - I only remember not being as wowed by them as I'd hoped. So, excellent marks for the classics and I’m staying open minded about the house concoctions.

The unfortunate reason for my slowness and lack of notes is that I lost my camera at the wedding in London. So, I'm working from my brain only without drink and menu pictures as back up. I pilfered the pics for this post off Adrian and you can read his review of the bar here. You’ll also find some picture on this site.

Overall, I'm happy with the price, quality, selection and service at the RM bar. I think any kinks I might have experienced are teething pains and that Greg & Co will do an outstanding job of it. And, I will happily go back to make sure.

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: Le Lucien of Hotel Fouquet

Le Lucien Bar, Fouquet Hotel
46 avenue George V
75008 Paris
01 40 69 60 00


The Bedazzler is a "cheap-ass rhinestone-studding tool favored by art teachers and over-excitable soccer moms everywhere, the biggest piece of crap sold on late-night TV since the Thighmaster, the reason women own shirts with glittery kitty-cats on them." Oh how I wish I had come up with that totally apt description myself (even though, secretly, I'd like to own one.) So, the Bedazzler is the first thing I thought of when I came face to face with the lifesize panther standing guard at the entrance to Fouquet Hotel's Bar Le Lucien:

This five star hotel at the very tip of the fancy "Triangle d'Or" is a (sometimes forced) melange of classic and modern design both inside and out. Once past the Swarovski encrusted kitty, we were able to better appreciate the mix of old-school style and trendy swank. Tasteful bookshelves line the walls and welcoming oversized, overstuffed chairs fill a room punctuated by modern ostentasia like the huge, blinged-out, lit-up Grey Goose bottle in a display case. The gorgeous terrace continues the theme of old+new a bit more successfully. Perhaps this bipolar decorating scheme reflects their (trademarked!?) concept of "Dignified Luxury"© which is a philosophy of providing luxury surroundings while remaining environmentally responsible. (Two extremes which I do give them big props for attempting to reconcile)

The cocktail menu begins with a page of bubbly-inspired choices, followed by a page of Grey Goose vodka cocktails, a page of Bombay Sapphire gin cocktails, and finally a page of various rhum, tequila and whiskey based cocktails. Each category contains four or five established cocktails (Singapore sling, cosmo, etc) and four or so house creations. A cocktail will set you back 24 Euros. The gin choice is a scant Hendricks, Tanqueray 10 and Bombay Sapphire. [and they are clearly pushing the Bombay and Grey Goose with whom they must have some kind of partnership] Barsnacks of garlic nuts, olives, crackers, hummus-filled pastries and smoked salmon with quinao were more impressive in abundance and presentation, than flavor.

My Tanqueray 10/Noilly Prat martini came, stirred, cold and with the requested twist. I don't love Tanqueray 10 in my martinis, but acknowledge that my tastes change over time so gave it another try. The drink was well-made. (I still would have preferred a different gin, but that's my choice) I followed up with a So Easy...F (champagne with a cognac tea liqueur). Matt and Violaine's drinks included the Bombay Fouquet (Gin, sweet vermouth, fresh basil, lemon juice, raspberry puree and passion fruit juice) and the Bombay Marrakech (Gin infused with Moroccan spices, fresh orange juice, grenadine, pineapple juice and fig jam).

The service was flawless and the staff seems to have a solid grasp of the cocktail menu - having both a real familiarity with the drinks and being able to suggest based on tastes. They're using some interesting and unusual ingredients (eucalyptus water, fresh wasabi, egg whites, jasmine syrup) and beautiful garnishes (many of which are meant to be consumed to add to the experience of the drink). They're even doing Cointreau Caviar.

Yet, while the drinks were excellent by Parisian standards, I still can't bring myself to give them a fully enthusiastic two thumbs up. I can't help but thinking the drinks could use a slight bit of tweaking (less citrus twist in my So Easy...F, more basil in Matt's Bombay Marrakech.) to bring them to perfection. I get the impression that it is first and foremost a 5 star hotel and secondly a cocktail bar. And that, I believe, is the problem with a lot of upscale hotel bars: they're damn good & you're often bedazzled by the accessories and service, but they could be better for the price.

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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: E7

E7
Hotel Edouard
39, av de l’Opéra
75002 PARIS
Tél: +33 (0)1 42 61 56 90

I'm behind in my blogging. And, I didn't even know where to begin again until someone asked me for bandaid. Looking through my handbag in search of one, I noticed what a mess it was & decided to clean it out right then. I dumped its contents and surveyed the result. Those of you who know me well will, of course, think it was full lots of practical, useful things like hand sanitizer, chap stick, dental floss and little packets of tissues, right? (Ha. ha.) No. It was my phone, an (empty) wallet, breath mints and....a handful of business cards from bars, a few dozen cards from various wine & spirits industry folks, a couple of invitations to drink & cocktails thingies, an envelope stuffed with postcards featuring recipes for limited edition Beefeater Summer gin and a stack of napkins covered with notes about drinking. Yes, people, that boozey bag debris tells you WHY I'm behind. Sometimes my social life gets in the way of blogging about... my social life!

One of aforementioned cards belonged to Régis Célabe, head barman at the E7 bar in the Hotel Edouard which I visited a few weeks back. With well-respected Sandrine Houdré-Grégoire (formerly of Murano) at the helm as Beverage Manager, the E7 has been on my list of spots to try for awhile. I liked Régis. He seems an amiable guy who not only knows what he's doing but enjoys being behind the bar. I wouldn't want to let my positive personal feelings about someone color my review. Fortunately I need not worry about having to knock the friendly Mr Célabe or his smooth running bar in this somewhat quiet and stylishly modern hotel where cocktails ring in at around 18 Euros.

That evening's bartender, Nicolas, stirred me a lovely Geranium/NP martini with a twist, which was served with barsnacks of nut and jellied candies. This may be the first Paris bar I've seen that stocks Geranium. Matt and Violaine arrived and ordered a first round of...something that unfortunately I can't remember. And, see, dear readers, this is why you should get your blog posts done in a timely manner. For the second round Nicolas mixed up a few surprises. I got a simple but sexy looking ginger-infused vodka, St Germain, lemon juice & tonic garnished with sparkly gold flakes and a hefty ice stick. While we know it's not usually my first choice in spirits, I'll take your wrath on this one, vodka-haters, and fully own up to enjoying Nicolas' twinkly cocktail. Violaine also got a vodka based concoction that involved lemongrass and ginger liqueur, bean & rose mousse and some form of green peas.

The place was rather empty save a few older anglophone tourists. Régis tells me that they have monthly 'after works' which would bump up the interest level for drinks at this price. Régis brought out a bottle of their Licit absinthe to offer a taste. On a side (but potentially interesting) note, he'll be mixing up special cocktails with this Absinthe at the next Blablabla & Co's "Cook Me Drink Me" I would definitely hit this event if I were in town - so if you're interested in cool people and fun drinks, check them out.

In short the E7 is putting admirable thought into their drinks and making sure the bar is stocked with some interesting product. And, apologies again for my lag time and lack of detail. But you can blame some of it on the following friends and folks who kept me busy over the last few weeks: Cocktails Spirits, Paris by Mouth, La Cuisine de Paris & GVine. I can enthusiastically plug all of them without feeling like a sellout because if you like yummy consumables and don't already know who they are, you are missing out!

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Sunday, March 14, 2010

Fashion Cocktail Adventure: Hotel de Crillon Vogue Bar

Hotel de Crillon Vogue Fashion Bar
10 Place de la Concorde
75008 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 71 15 39

I first got word of the temporary Vogue/Crillon bar collaboration via tweet from I heart Paris who always has good info on fun fashion and other cool stuff in Paris. During fashion week one of the bars at the upscale Crillon was made over with fuzzy black Vogue emblazoned pillows, cocktail menus resembling fashion magazines, a makeup station and a clientele of models and photographers. Since my usual London cocktail testing partner, Caitlin, and NYC foodie/cocktail friend, Mel, were both in town it seemed a perfect place for a luxurious ladies' drink.

So, after a coffee at Cafe Marly and before a meal at Aki, we stopped in for a predinner cocktail. Caitlin and I had spent the afternoon touring Paris food and perfume shops and were dressed for daytime walking, not swanky evening activities. Slightly embarrassed, I asked the concierge if we could go in as we were. No problem. We wandered down the hall and popped into the small, dim, cozy space with a glitzy bar and snuggled up on the soft sofas to peruse the menu. A ginormous 3 tier offering of pretzels, nuts and chips was delivered by black-clad servers in almost comically large red bow ties.

They gave us the 'fashion' menus and then, for some reason, took them away and gave us the regular ones, assuring us they offered more choice. Perhaps we weren't dressed well enough after all! But, a glance at the clientele reassured me. Everyone was casual, predominately in jeans with a few trainers here and there. Saturday was the last night of the Vogue bar and perhaps it was already demodé. The makeup station was gone and I didn't spot any industry looking types.

The menu offers a few pages of drinks with "longs", "shorts" and "martinis" all at 22 Euros and champagne cocktails at 24 Euros. The 'martini' list begins with an apple martini and carries onward with six other martini choices, minus a classic dry martini and mainly based on vodka.

Caitlin took the Elderflower Collins (Hendricks, St Germain, lemon and club soda) while Mel took the (I think?) Rose de Crillon. Each cocktail was pretty and nicely made - no big surprises and no big disappointments. I asked what gin they use in the martinis and got a long list of the usual suspects, so I specified Beefeater 24 with a zest. My martini was plenty cold and nicely done - with the exception of coming with olives, despite my request. And, I think that's a pretty big mistake to make when a basic martini costs a shocking 29 Euros. (I totally ate all the pretzels!)

The overall ambiance is pleasant and refined. Mel noted she thought the music (5 year old Hotel Costes playlist) was a bit out of date. The drinks are well-made and standard for a hotel of this calibre. However, if I were to go back, it surely wouldn't be for a martini. Perhaps this is a better stop for a simple glass of wine or even afternoon tea.

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Thursday, November 5, 2009

Wednesday Cocktail Adventure: Ladureé

Ladurée
75 Avenue des Champs Elysées
Paris 8ème
Tel. : + 33 1 40 75 08 75

I'm not a sweets person, but when it comes to macarons, that's a whole different story. My absolute favorite in Paris are at Pierre Hermé, but Ladurée turns out some excellent ones, as well. Obviously, I like cocktails, so when Ladurée opened a bar last last year, this seemed like a no-brainer visit for me. However, I'm not a big fan of drinking on the Champs Elysées, so I didn't rush to it. But, after awhile, how can you resist a bar that - according to their menu - makes, "the minutes become more precise in the way of getting faster while remaining faithful to its values at the same time: elegance and delicacy in all shapes!" So, Elspeth, Matt & Violaine joined me here to see how they might (as further claimed on their menu) "profit of all influences linked with its history."

In general I find the Ladurée decor fussy-frilly-pretty. But, step into this bar in the back of their Champs branch, and you'll get a completely different feel...or in the their own words: a "complimentary house living at a different rhythm." Clearly, I am getting a kick out of the translated text on their menu, but I'll try and get back to my own words. After some discussion we decided on art deco - with modern glowing violet touches. Elspeth likened it to sitting inside a cake. I wasn't getting cake-feel, but more Geiger bar-feel. Strange comparison, I know. But, work with me here: the intricate iron work reminds me of delicate creepy cobwebs or android skeletons. I don't think that's the look their going for, so if you do visit, think cake and not creep!

Before our visit and up to this point, I was mentally prepared to knock this bar on my blog (even though I love the macarons). I imagined it to be more gimmick than substance. But, a look at the menu made me rethink my quick-to-judge attitude. The list of classics feature some solid basics (Manhattans, Martini, Singapore Slings). In addition, they offer up 10 house creations at 18 to 20 Euros and 6 macaron cocktails, which go for a hefty 22 Euros.

I started with the dry martini and got a well prepared Tanqueray Ten martini, stirred, in a chilled glass, with an offer of a twist or olives (which I accidentally ate before taking the picture). Bartender, Jerome, was professional and friendly and clearly took his work seriously. Elspeth tried the pleasantly sippable Baiser Vole "Vesper", one of the house creations made with Grey Goose, Noilly Pratt and Lillet Blanc. Jerome brought over a plate of four tiny & tasty quiche nibbles as well. We didn't try the food, but the tapas plate at 10 Euros, with a selection of 5 items, looks like it could potentially be a good deal.

Matt & Violaine each took one of the macaron creations (think: seriously adult milk & cookies!). Matt's violet was sweet, but good. Violaine's pistachio was interesting (in a good way) and refreshing. Both are creamy drinks and better if stirred before drinking. I also tried a house creation - the Suivez-moi (green pea juice, pear grey goose, grapefruit syrup and ginger cordial) which wasn't just pretty to look at, but tasty as well. While the bar stock is not enormous, it's sufficient: a couple of gins (Tanqueray Ten, Bombay Sapphire) a couple of vodkas, a handful of rums. The house creations - while a bit heavy on the vodka-based drinks - seem to be put together with some thought for the flavors combinations working in interesting ways.

Matt declared this one of his favorite Wednesday spots. While I know you can get better prepared serious cocktails elsewhere, I, too am a fan. He likened it to La Famille, where you might not be able to order a perfectly executed obscure classic, you will definitely get something unique & well-done. And, as a bonus: on exiting the bar, you pass right by the macaron shop and can pick up a few to take home. (of course we did.)

So, I wouldn't go to Ladurrée for cocktails on a regular basis, but, I will definitely go back. When grandma comes to town, take her to the Madeleine Ladurée for tea. But, when fun friends who like a bit of flash come for a visit, take them for a uniquely sweet evening cocktail at the Champs Ladurée.

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Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: Le Magnifique

Le Magnifique
25, Rue de Richelieu
75001 Paris
Tel: 01 40 60 70 80

Ages ago I went to NYC with a friend and we went to some new in spot - the kind of club where you stand outside and the doorman picks and chooses among the hopefuls, granting access to the lucky few. I won't say just how many ages ago that was, but it's been a very long time since I've stood outside a door waiting for someone else to decide if I was cool enough to give them money. When we buzzed at the locked door of le Magnifique and were told by the doorman that we could not come in, it momentarily took me back to those times. Fortunately they were not being intentionally exclusive. They changed their opening time from 7pm to 8pm, but didn't update their website. So, an hour later, we had no problem gaining entry through the imposing big black door (still locked during opening hours) of this self-proclaimed Cocktail Club and Sushi Bar.

I don't necessarily think of sushi bars and cocktails as going hand in hand (well, except for that one night in Japan....) However, with a cocktail menu created with input from Colin Field of Hemingway Bar fame, you know from the git-go that someone had some serious cocktail ambition. The menu is vast, including a section of classics at 16 Euros and a section of Colin Field inspired drinks at 20 Euros.

My Hendrick's martini was spot on. The gin selection comprises Tanqueray, Bombay Sapphire, Hendricks, Martin Miller's (which I've not seen in Paris!), Bulldog and Tanqueray 10. Nicky's Serindipity (Calvados, mint, apple juice, champagne) was refreshing. Wendy, visiting from Seattle, had a Merinquin Fiz (if I remember correctly?) which was topped off with thick egg whites and sprinkled with poppy seeds. A suspiciously hard-shake sounding 'ticka-ticka-ticka" emanated from the bar area behind us. And, our server he told me they try and keep an eye on seasonal ingredients for the cocktails, which hopefully means fresher and better drinks.

Delicate looking glassware twinkles in the candlelight and dark corners and closed doors flirt suggestively with patrons leaving them to wonder just what this saucy little drinkery might offer. The extremely dim lighting, viewing box at the door, and the overall decor give this relatively large space a serious speakeasy feel. However, gaining entrance is easier than for elusive speakeasys. By simply filling out a form online you can become a "member" of le Magnifique. (which is not necessary to drop by, but apparently puts you on a mailing list for new information about the bar)

Another thing I noticed is that for such a large space, they've got the music at just the right level so that it doesn't overpower conversations at your own table, but blocks out the buzz of those around you. I expected something more along the lines of a Costes like playlist, but instead the night we were there, solid classics were playing (think U2). Once a member via the online registration, you can listen to their playlist for yourself on Deezer.

A few final things of note: they have a fumoir (smoking area), which you find rarely now that France has gone no smoking and the service was pleasant and accommodating. However, we did wish they would have put out a few little bar snacks to nibble while sipping on 20 Euros cocktails!

Le Magnifique is a large and minimalistically plush hideaway for modern day hepcats with dosh to spare. Fortunately, while it seems to take its drinks seriously, it doesn't take itself too seriously just yet. The only drawback here is that there's nothing less expensive on the menu for those who might want to check out the space without spending. With softs at 10 Euros and a simple glass of wine at 16 Euros, coming here is a commitment. But as long as they maintain the laid-back attitude of this week's visit and 'exclusivity' remains tongue in cheek, it's a committment I'm willing to make from time to time.

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Thursday, July 16, 2009

Wednesday Cocktail Adventures: Hotel Raphael

Bar Anglais at Hotel Raphael
17 Avenue Kléber
75116 Paris
01 53 64 32 00


I am not a snob. I just really enjoy what I enjoy. And, I really enjoy combo of a killer terrace view and a tasty, satisfying cocktail. Hearing I could get both these at the Hotel Raphael I convinced my cocktail crew to head over there and shell out for high priced drinks. Sadly, when we arrived, they informed us that the terrace bar was closed for a private party and steered us towards the downstairs Bar Anglais. This bar looked inviting as well, but with the dark wood and heavy thick curtains it seems more suited for sipping body-warming intoxicants on cool winter nights.

Onto the ordering. At 23 Euros, I didn't think it was unusual to ask the server what kind of gin they use. I did, however, think it unusual that he would offer me a choice of unimpressive Gordon's or Talisker (!?). Confused, I asked him if I could see the bottle of "Talisker Gin" and followed him up to the bar. As I suspected, there is no Talisker Gin behind the bar, but, as I explained to him, it's whisky.

I ended up with a Tanqueray martini, which neither thrilled nor disgusted me. The proportion of gin to vermouth was acceptable and it came with a lemon twist. It was served in a non-chilled glass that was part of a Cointreau freebie promotional give-away. I've had better martinis for half the price at the Experimental, Curio, Mama Shelter, and the Why bar. So, here, I expect an attention to detail that merits the twice-as-high price. And, that doesn't mean a cheapy glass that's telling me to "Be Cointreau-lisious!" A similarly priced and much better martini at the George V comes with the extras that help justify the cost: special twists, beautiful glassware with impressive spoon rests and exceptional service. The only extras that came to our table here were some round cracker-type barsnacks and small pizza bites. (which, to be fair, were tasty)

I've waxed on in the past about the price at hotel bars partly being high to keep out the hoi polloi. So, did we feel like we were among the most elite and refined of the city? No. We were sitting across from a cleavage-tastic woman with a gropy old man who were putting on a suckface and grab show worthy of the back seat of a football player's car on homecoming, while a group of scruffy teenage boys in baggy pants roamed the hallway.

Now, I should have just stopped here, but Matt arrived and ordered a side car (a bit light on the cointreau, but okay) and we were still waiting for Violaine. Their menu featured a handful of house creations, none of which looked interesting. However, with the unknown (to me) ingredient of Pisang Ambon in the Raphealite, I thought perhaps this was the one. I went up to the bartender and asked what this was. I was told that they did not know and they believed it to be either some kind of fruit juice or something "herbal". Now given that the bottle had to be within arm's reach from them, I'm unimpressed - and shocked - that they didn't take it off the shelf and show it to me. Instead, they asked me "Why do you want to know? Do you want to order that cocktail?" I answered "Well, I don't want to order it until I know what it is." Unapologetically, she said "Sorry, I don't know what that ingrediant is." Forget it. I'll just take a glass of red wine.

I returned to the table and waited for both Violaine and my wine. The server came back and asked me what I'd like. I, again, ordered a glass of red wine. Awhile later she came back with a glass of white wine. Once more, I told her I had ordered red. Violaine had just arrived and offered to take the white. With no appreciation for our saving of her foible, she left, presumably to get my red wine. I saw her taking out several orders and finally 35 minutes and 3 requests later, I got my glass of 11 Euros red wine.

Now, just to make things clear. Not only do I have no desire to be a snob, I couldn't afford to be one if I wanted to. I have nothing in particular against tacky glassware, shmarmy sugar daddy dates, or sloppily dressed teens. I just don't want to pay 23 Euros to see all these things while I'm drinking an unimpressive cocktail accompanied by bad service. I care what I spend my money on. And, apparently, I'm just the kind of client that the Bar Anglais doesn't feel the need to bother with.

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Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Wednesday Cocktail Adventure: Murano

NOTE: For searching convenience, i'm cutting and pasting my earlier entries from eGullet before my blog existed, so there are no photos for these first few & these are not recent entries - i just thought it would be better for them to all be in one place...just some housekeeping!:

Murano
3, Boulevard du Temple,
Paris 75003 (note: in a few websites the address is listed as 13 – but that’s a typo online, not mine – it is number 3)

When a drinks menu lists regular old Johnny Walker at 16 Euros a shot, you already know you’re paying in big part for atmosphere in addition to the booze. And, the Murano does deliver atmosphere. You walk into open, bright lobby with spacey, modern chairs and a decorative (yet functional) ‘fireplace’ that runs the entire length of one wall. This first seating area seems a bit sterile, but still modern and hip. Passing into the bar proper area, it’s dimmer, but colorful and modern with flashy videos playing on the wall behind the bar.

A few reviews I read told me that this is where the beautiful people drink. Apparently, that means the beautiful people with cash, because the drinks are, on average, 20 Euros. Here, I had no qualms ordering my martini exactly to specification. Their house gin is Bombay Sapphire, which I didn’t bother changing, since I haven’t changed from the house on any of my other martini excursions (and somehow I like that consistency). It came, just as I ordered, nice a cold and with an olive. But, for 19 Euros, I pretty much expected it to come just as I had ordered. My fellow drinkers had a couple of froufy fruity drinks. I don’t remember the names, but they were basically hyped up fruit juice with lots of fancy cut and splayed fruits and accessories. They also brought a small selection of upscale munchies – this is not a peanuts-in-a-ramekin bar – you get little dips and pizza-like bites.

The service was top notch. I was talking to the waiter about martinis, telling him I was on a quest for good ones. His first question: “have you been to the experimental cocktail club?” (So far this still remains my top choice for an excellent price/quality value)

I can be a sucker for cute little gimmicky things – like their bloody mary ‘degustation’, which is three small bloody marys made with red, green and yellow(?) tomato juice. I probably would have tried that for my next drink(s), but neither of my drinking partners wanted to stay for the usual second round. Even with the uber-chic ambience, they didn’t feel like the price was worth the experience.

And, personally, while I don’t have a problem with paying a little more for the whole package, the Murano is a little too out of the way for me and a little too expensive to trek all the way there for cocktails on a regular basis, even if they were nice. (, if you’re a big vodka fan this might be your place as they specialize in it and have a really wide range.

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