Groupon Fail Cocktail Adventures: Will et Cie Cocktail Classes

Will et Cie

10 Place du Colonel Bourgoin

75012 Paris

Tel: 06 59 92 10 57

Recently, I took a full day off the computer. When I logged on the following morning I had close to 50 mails. I deleted every single one without reading. Being online most of the time, I bin things as they come in so I never realized just how much junk comes into my box on a daily basis. A large portion of these mails are Groupons, which come so frequently, I've stopped reading them. Unless...the word 'cocktail' catches my eye. And, that's how I ended up buying a Groupon for a cocktail class at Will et Cie. For 45 Euros (instead of 119 Euros) I got a pass for two to learn to shake "two or three" cocktails, bake goodies to go with them, and partake in a 'warm and convivial' tasting after - all in one hour!

So, Mel and I rocked up to the tiny studio that serves as their classroom. This space is adorable as a studio apartment. But, as a professional classroom, not so much. The large flat screen TV played old Buffy reruns, the frisky house pup jumped about licking classmates' fingers and the fridge was stocked with, well, the same things mine's stocked with: half of last night's dinner, bits and bobs. But, then again, I'm not running a cooking class out of my house.

A friendly and pleasant instructor broke us into three groups of two and set us each to a different baking project. I was assigned the savory gateaux au yaourt while the others worked on cookie type things and mini-muffins. I was slightly surprised by the simplicity of what we were learning. I was mixing up something that children learn to bake at an early age in France. But, it's not like they were teaching me to put Cheezewhiz on Ritz crackers, so I rolled with it. As she instructed, she periodically called up to a man lounging in the little loft just above the kitchen (Will, I presume?) to ask how much of what ingredient went into which dish. I wasn't expecting Alain Ducass, but I was hoping the person teaching would actually know how to do it themselves.

Once the baked goods were in the oven, the cocktails commenced. And rather than "two or three" we were to learn one: the Cosmo. A shaker, Smirnoff, lime syrup, triple sec and Oceanspray were set out and she instructed Mel on how to make it. She had her pour the ingredients into the shaker (without ice) and while I don't remember her proportions, I do remember thinking at the time that they were surprisingly accurate. Given what I had seen up to this point, I had expected some bastardized version of the Cosmo calling for copious amounts of cranberry and a drop of vodka. Then she gave us the 'secret' to making a good cosmopolitan: use just two ice cubes and shakes it until they melt. Sigh....

After Mel did so, she asked us which glasses we'd like to use. Our choices: tumblers or wine balloons. Call me an overdemanding traditionalist, but if you're going to charge people to come to a class to learn about a specific cocktail, wouldn't you maybe splash out a tenner at Ikea to get the proper style of glass? We went for the wine balloons. And, the cosmo tasted pretty much as I expected a watery and too warm mixture of the above ingredients.

About this time the finger foods were coming out of the oven and tasting began. But, the strange thing was we were all just tasting what we made. There was no instruction or suggestion to share with the group. Having a wealth of mini-savory cakes, Mel and I offered ours up to the class. But, no one else did, rather boxing them up in the provided to go containers to gorge on them all alone later. If we aren't all going to taste everything, what was the point of us all being there at the same class or making different things?

And there's more. After Mel made our drinks, the instructor cleared away the ingredients. The other four students neither made nor at the very least tasted the cocktail of the "cocktail workshop." In fact, she pleasantly shuffled them along once they filled their boxes while offering us the opportunity to make a second one if we wished. She was so cheerful and friendly, but this whole thing just seems wrong on so many levels that I'm really just shaking my head here.

Their website is cute and looks professional enough. They seem to be partnered with other professional-type businesses. I even noticed that some of my acquaintances in the cocktail world like their page on Facebook. It was the twilight zone of cocktail courses. All external indicators point to something useful and fun, but the reality is entirely different. If I were Will, I would completely change my marketing on this one. Rather than presenting it as an apero dinatoire and cocktails workshop I'd play it as a class on "Entertaining on a shoestring" or "Entertaining with an empty fridge" because we weren't learning gastronomically interesting things. We were working with minimum, cheap ingredients and very simple recipes.

I debated on posting this for awhile because our instructor was so nice and they seem so woefully out of their league that it feels almost cruel. But, I got to thinking: we get enough junk mail and junk experiences in life that clog up our time. So, I decided to post so you know you can just delete that mail on the Will et Cie Cocktail Workshop Groupon immediately when it pops into the inbox.

Science Cocktail Adventures: MMCevents

MMCevents

I often wish I were a quantum physicist. Clearly I'm not. But science rocks. So, sometimes I like to pretend and I'll do things like slog through an issue of Scientific American or take a tour of CERN. And, given my interest in food and drink, I'm naturally curious about food science - or molecular gastronomy (I know some of you get tetchy about that word, but that's another topic). I've sampled the food at Tapas Molecular Bar, Tokyo, and put back a few cocktails à la Tony C at the impressive 69 Colebrooke Row, London. But when it comes to molecular, Paris is pretty barren.

About two years ago, MMCevents (Mixologie Moléculaire Consulting) stepped up to try and add a bit of molecular cred to the Paris scene. Their services include training, consulting, events and - coming soon - an online boutique. So, I stopped by one of their molecular mixology classes to indulge both my inner scientist and outer cocktaillian.

The course is held in the small basement of their office and on arrival the table is already tricked out with scales, beakers, powders and the like. I was joined by four other participants and we paired up into three groups of two (I came solo so I was paired with Benjamin, our instructor.) After handing out papers describing the scientific properties of the materials we would be using and talking a bit in general about the course, Benjamin got down to business with the first of our two 'science projects.'

We started with a lesson in caviar made with sodium alginate. For readers who aren't familiar with the term 'caviar' beyond fish eggs, my quick molecular gastronomy definition is: tiny bits of liquid flavor solidified into gel-like balls (I believe this is also the same process used to make faux caviar with fish juice and for a bit more information on how to do this at home using store-bought products you can check out Jamie Boudreau's video here.) Benjamin had us measuring, pouring, whirling, watching, dropping, dipping - until we ended up with our own (if not perfect) well-intentoned little blue balls of mandarin essence. Once finished, we dropped a few into flutes, topped with champagne and drank our first assignment.

Our next project required gloves and goggles as we used liquid nitrous to freeze up a cosmo mix into a sorbet. We suited up and watched Benjamin pour out the liquid nitrous while the burning cold smoke oozed across the floor. I kind of dig liquid nitrous for its theatrical qualities. The finished product here is a smoking cold cosmo ice cream with a serious alcohol kick due to the absence of dilution that you get with a shaken one.

Benjamin has a background with reputable establishments in Paris and has a solid grasp on what he's doing and teaching. He's a helpful instructor and the small classes allow for one on one attention. You don't just get to play with their equipment, but he gives really useful tips. For example: Sodium alginate won't gel with something that's too high in alcohol content. Liquid nitrous should be stirred with a wooden spoon. Some of the students in our class had clearly already tried doing some of these things at home and he gave them the lowdown on why their balls hadn't gelled.

A few weeks afterthe class, I made a stop back into MMC with uber-cool foodie couple David & Mathilde as they got a rundown on how to use the liquid nitrous prior to her appearance on Un Diner Presque Parfait. In follow up I asked them what it was like to play with this stuff at home. David tells me that it's easy to get (if you have a SIRET number) and efficiently delivered. It's initially a bit frightening, but you become comfortable with it. If you’re a fan of the show, you’ll see them putting it to use in the next few months as Mathilde puts together her own fabulous dinner.

At 100+ per class, it's not a course for cocktail newbies who just want to mix a G&T. Neither is it a class for those already schooled in molecular ways. It's geared towards those who are already somewhat knowledgeable and willing to commit to doing more than just mixing up a martini. As for me, I was happy to play scientist for a couple or hours and also get to drink the results. Yeah....I'm no quantum physicist...but I can make a mean mandarin caviar now.

DIY Cocktail Adventures: l'Art France Cocktail Class

L'Art France
Art France
7-9 rue Montyon
75009 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 77 32 49 69

I've probably made more martinis than any other cocktail. I've surely drank more of them than any other cocktail. But when it comes to mixology, Paris is much more mojito than martini. So I was pleasantly surprised to see them taught side by side at a recent cocktail class I was scoping out. l'Art France is one of a handful of Paris cooking schools getting onboard with the cocktail trend. I enlisted the company of friend and fellow drinker from my old local, Marette, and off we went for some shaker-schooling.

Friendly staff shuffled us into a room with about 16 others already crowded around a long shiny black table loaded with cocktail glasses, straws, etc. The class was led by Antoine, who at the time was working at well-known Plaza Athenee, but will have already moved to long-standing institution, Harry's, by now. He explained that this class for non-pros focuses on basics and uses spirits and equipment that are simple and easy for a home bar. The general idea is making cocktails with what you might already have around the house.

He smartly started with basics on balance and gave suggested proportions for three very important cocktail elements: Strong, Sour and Sweet. I've hosted a cocktail or two and after a tipple everyone's a barman and wants to show off their mad mixing skills. This rarely results in an inspired drink. But, with a bit more foundation in how to incorporate these three elements with grace and forthought, I think these well-meaning budding-mixologists would be more likely to turn out something tasty.

Beyond basics, and onto actual practice, we learned a margarita, mojito, martini and a sort of white lady. Antoine's knowledge and skills were evident as he executed drinks well and fielded questions with ease. He showcased the same cocktail with different sweet ingrediants (e.g. granulated sugar versus syrup) highlighting overall changes as a result of small variations. We finished with a bit of instruction on weight and layering.

Antoine's laid-back, friendly and patient demeanor sets the class at ease as he invites participants to make a cocktail side by side with him. He's an enthusiastic and competant teacher, but some of the aspects of this cocktail class (which presumabely fall under the responsibility of school management) need a bit of tweaking to improve the overall experience.

First suggestion: chairs. In an attempt to make the class more convivial and interactive, participants stand during the session. On a friday night after a long week, I'm just not that interested in standing for 2 hours. I know you bar pros stand for a lot longer than this. But, it's my hobby not my metier, so let me take a seat - or at least warn me so I leave the heels at home.

Second suggestion: more hands-on practice. While people were actively encouraged to come up and participate, there simply wasn't time or ingrediants for everyone to have a go at making a full cocktail. Which brings me too...

Third suggestion: I want an actual cocktail to taste. (okay, more reasonably, a sample of the cocktail for sipping). The class sampled the drinks with straw tastings. I assume this is more to manage stock than for hygiene purposes, since many of the class members sucked the end of their straws and then double-dipped. I personally don't get squeemy sharing a cocktail glass, so I wasn't freaked by this (although it is a bit gross when you think about it too much). But, I'd just rather have my own sample to drink.

And final suggestion: I'd like to see more attention to ingrediants. Depending on what I'm making and for whom there are occassions when I don't think the quality improvement warrants the extra cost of certain things. But, when I'm making something that is essentially booze, i.e. a martini, I want something better than mediocre gin, which is what we were dealing with. The selection was a hodge-podge of miscellaneous mainly low-end product.

I can't help but compare this to a very similar level of cocktail class at La Cuisine. The la Cuisine course rings it at 40 Euros while this one will set you back 65. Both are classes for newbies taught by knowledgeable and friendly barmen. But at la Cuisine, classes are smaller, every student gets hands on practice at making & drinking each drink, and the cocktail selection is more interesting. But Antoine does get props for daring to throw a martini into the mix!

DIY: La Cuisine "Shake it Baby" Cocktail Class

La Cuisine
89 Boulevard Saint-Michel
75005 Paris
Tel: 01 40 51 78 18

This may come as no surprise: I’m a very social person. I love going out, catching up with friends and finding great cocktail bars. However, there are times when I love – just as much – some serious me time. Quiet nights at home are what recharge me and keep me fun, friendly Forest instead of cranky, tired Forest. Friday nights in are my favorite. And, the best part about it: I can still make myself a stand-out cocktail if I so wish. So, what to do if you don’t know how to make yourself something tempting? Take a class, I say!

In addition to cocktail bars, I am trying to get around the various cocktail classes offered in Paris. So, let’s start with the latest: La Cuisine Paris. In addition to a long list of tempting cooking classes (including macarons!) La Cuisine offers “Shake it Baby” – your chance to learn to mix a few tipples like a pro.

For the bargain price of 45 Euros, you can spend an hour and a half in the company of the young, charming, talented, bilingual (& cute…yes, I know I can be superficial...) barman, Fred. Having seen his fine work at le Cercle, I was looking forward to this one. The class covered four different well-known cocktails including two old schools: Martinez & Whiskey Sour (with eggwhite) and two new kids on the block: Tommy’s Margarita of Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant in San Francisco and the Gin Basil Smash of le Lion, Hamburg (which – in my humble opinion, of course - is one of the best cocktail bars out there.)

I was immediately impressed by the clean, bright and welcoming work space of la Cuisine. And, by happy coincidence friend and fellow blogger, Lindsey, was there to take in some cocktail knowledge as well. Fred did a commendable job of going through the basics (tools and ingredients) and walking us through the prep of each cocktail step by step as our group of seven or so girls each made – and sampled – our own drinks. We even ran overtime a bit, but this didn’t stop Fred from finishing our lesson and we ended with my favorite of the bunch, the Martinez.

While hard-core cocktaillians might find the syllabus a bit newbie, this is a perfect class for those who are starting to dabble in the world of cocktails or just generally curious. However, having spoken to them before the class, it sounds like they are open and receptive to a group’s needs. In other words, get enough people together to sign up for a group class and you just might be able to talk them into something more geared towards your cocktail level and interests.

In short: an excellent way for a gaggle of girls (or boys) to spend a fun and informative afternoon. Or a great thing to do for those of us who like to stay home from time to time but still want a stellar cocktail while doing it.

DIY Edition: Cocktail Class with Colin Field of Bar Hemingway, Ritz

Bar Hemingway, Ritz/Escoffier School
15 Place Vendome
Paris
Tel: +33 1 43 16 30 30

There is no such thing as a perfect cocktail. This comes from the man who many would argue makes exactly that. But Colin Field, Head Bartender at the Bar Hemingway for the past 16 years, believes that to be great, a cocktail must be viewed within an entire context of who’s drinking it, why and where.

In the past, I’ve intentionally avoided Papa Hemingway’s old haunt for Wednesday Cocktail Adventures. Having been there before, I didn’t doubt that the cocktails would be perfectly executed. But, for me, the 30 Euros price tag is near impossible to justify – even given the coddling and historical elegance of the Ritz.

Of course, I visit a lot of bars for 52 Martinis. But, I also indulge in more liver-friendly research through books, magazines and chats with plenty of knowledgeable industry people. In this vein, I decided a cocktail class with Mr. Field, himself could be highly educational. Courses are offered in either French or English and go from 15h00 to 16h30 on Saturdays. (cost: 100 Euros)

Our group of 12 sat in the bar while Colin shared his cocktail philosophy, stories and samples. This is a man who has a lot of thoughts and theories on drinking. This is also a man who invites overused adjectives: stylish, impeccable, personable, professional. You simply have to respect anyone that elevates their chosen profession to such a level. The hour and a half course stretched closer to two hours as we broke into groups for an exercise – which included sampling the finished product.

Initially, I wasn’t certain that I could learn much in such a short period of time. I can now confidently say that anyone with a serious interest in cocktails will appreciate an afternoon spent in the company this exceedingly charming bartender. By 16h00 I was revamping some of my own thoughts on cocktails and revising my budget to include more drinks at the Ritz.

If you’re hoping to learn how to make a mojiti or toss shakers, this is not for you. But, if you want to better understand what makes cocktails interesting, personal and palatable, don’t hesitate to sign up. By the time I left – Ritz martini glass and certificate in hand – I was thinking: there may not be a perfect cocktail, but there just might be a perfect bartender.